IMATS 2012: techniques and products you need to know

Freezing? Moi?

Last weekend I was thrilled to attend my first ever IMATS (International Make-up Artist Trade Show) and it did not disappoint. Held at Alexandra Palace, IMATS is a 3-day event which brings together the very best of make-up brands and talent from around the world. Here were some of the top techniques and products from the show:

Been on yer 'olidays pet?

Contouring

If you’ve never contoured before then check out this fab 'how to' video from celebrity make-up artist Lisa Eldridge. Contouring (e.g. with a matte bronzer), is one of the quickest ways to warm up the skin. Done in the right way (note: subtly!) it sculpts and adds definition to your face, bringing out cheekbones you never knew you had. In a word, it's undeniably flattering. MAC’s premier artist Terry Barber demoed a stronger contoured look to the delight of an audience of more than 500. Terry thinks fashion & editorial make-up is becoming more masculine - "perfection is the new trashy" - and he's right what with stronger brows, no mascara eyes and a whole spectrum of nude & skin-toned colours making headlines on the catwalks. But I don't think I'll be binning my Lady Danger just yet...

Reverse contouring (image courtesy of Eve Pearl)

Reverse Contouring

Reverse contouring is a trend that's been growing for a while. It follows the principle that our skin - regardless of our colouring - is not simply one flat colour (just as our faces aren't a flat canvas). Matching a single foundation to our skin tone and then applying it across the entire face is therefore not enough.

To reverse contour you need to work with 2 shades of foundation; one that matches your skin tone exactly, and another which is slightly darker/warmer (e.g. one shade darker than your skin tone).

Here's the trick: apply the slightly darker colour to the cheekbones, forehead and the centre of the chin, and the lighter colour to the jawline and around the top of the lips. Then blend in between the two colours with a foundation brush or sponge.

Reverse contouring makes a lot of sense to me because the ambition is always for the jawline to match the neck. And since we naturally blush around the cheek area, blending a slightly darker foundation here also makes sense. I doubt women everywhere will be rushing out to buy, not one, but two (ha!) very expensive bottles of liquid foundation but the technique certainly does give us something to think about.

A fab invention (image courtesy of Eve Pearl)

Matte black eyelash glue

I was very excited to see that Eve Pearl (American make-up artist who worked on Saturday Night Live for years and who has her own make-up range) has launched a matte black eyelash glue. I'll say it again, matte and black. This is exciting for two reasons: 1. It's hard enough wearing false lashes without worrying that people can see you're wearing them. 2. Sometimes the white glue dries shiny (even when it dries clear). 

DUO dark tone adhesive

Unfortunately you can't buy Eve Pearl here (unless you buy online from the States) but Duo (a staple in all professional make-up artists' bags and available from Charles Fox, Screen Face and other pro makeup stores for between £8-£10) offer a 'dark tint' adhesive. Well worth trying if you're a lash gal.

Double cream for the face

And finally...Embryolisse 
Embryolisse - where have you been all my life? Now, I'm not the first to blog about this moisturiser, for one it's long been a favourite of the fabulous make-up video bloggers Pixiwoo...but, if you're reading about it for the first time, you need to try this product. Here's why:
- it's deliciously rich (my skin has been terrible this winter but since buying Embryolisse last week, my skin is transformed, hydrated and smooth)
- it acts as a great base under make-up
- it's only £10 for 30ml (hurrah!)

Look out for my next blog post which will be all about brushes!

The WOW factor

Miracle worker?

It's rare that a product makes me go 'wow', but Kiehl's new Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate (bit of a mouthful I know) is something to be seen and tested.

Lord knows what they put in this thing (Glycerin, Propylene Glycol and Vitamin C if you must know) but after massaging a little all over my face, my skin took on a porcelain-like smoothness and my fine lines had va-va-voomed?!

The concentrate has the consistency of a thick moisturising cream but is absorbed quickly into the skin, without leaving any kind of residue (providing you don't overdo it).

The thing you'll notice instantly though, is that it feels like a thermal mask. I found this unnerving at first (why does it do that?) but the sensation doesn't last long. (I've written to Kiehl's to ask about the heat bit - will update as soon as I get a response!)

As with all serums / moisturisers, I'd recommend testing a sample on your skin before you commit to buying the full-size product. If you work in Central London, why not pop over to the Kiehl's store on Monmouth St (just off Seven Dials). The staff are always lovely in there and have good knowledge of the products. The legendary Monmouth Coffee is also just a couple of doors down, and well worth a visit if you're a coffee fiend like me.

KIEHL'S Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate 

(RRP: £49, reduced from £53 from the Kiehl's website)

So that's my new little miracle-worker. Do you have a miracle-in-a-bottle?

Beauty counter conundrum: how to avoid the hard sell

Bobbi's best foundation yet? Try before you buy.

Happy 'twenty-twelve' to one and all.

First up this year is the age-old problem of how to avoid the hard sell at the beauty counter. We know they have sales targets to meet and product to shift but sometimes it's as if the smiling, doll-faced ladies behind the counter have put us under their spell? (And you'd think it'd be easier for a make-up artist but let me tell you, I get sucked in too sometimes).

Take my recent trip to the Bobbi Brown counter at Liberty's yesterday.

Bobbi has recently launched a new whipped foundation: Extra Repair Foundation SPF 25 (RRP £36), in a jar nonetheless! How novel. Now, there is nothing which excites me more than finding the perfect foundation. I think that's because I've never found it. (I find fault with them all, but, I'm terribly picky and I know foundations are leagues ahead of the ones my mother used to buy so I can't complain).

Even as I looked at the foundation and the assistant walked over, I could feel myself falling into The Trap...

I decided to try some on the back of my hand and was instantly impressed by it's smooth texture. (It left my skin looking dewy similar to NARS Sheer Glow Foundation RRP £29.50).

NARS Sheer Glow Foundation. We likey.

Within seconds, the shop assistant had offered to apply some to my face. I thought, why the hell not! She went to an awful lot of trouble, cleansing my face first, then massaging in some cream, and then the foundation itself ("it's important to warm the foundation up in your hands before you apply it to the skin. Bobbi encourages us to do this").

5 minutes in, I started to feel the 'I-should-buy-something-to-say-thank-you' guilt-trip. Another 2 minutes went by and I'd bought some! ("@£*&*^%") But here's the thing we must remember ladies:

MY FAIL-SAFE TOP TIPS WHEN MAKE-UP SHOPPING:
1. The assistants are there to introduce us to products, and to the brand. It's their job - first and foremost - way before any selling comes into play. 'I am in complete control' is your mantra as you approach them.
2. Even if they spend 20 minutes giving us a glamorous makeover, we are not in any way obliged to buy anything.
3. Most brands produce sample sizes of new products. If you like something, ask for a sample. If they don't have a sample ask for a small amount of the product to be put in a sample pot (I think Nars are one of the few brands which don't do this).
4. New foundations must always be checked first on your skin, in natural daylight (e.g. on your neck or jaw, not on your hand). This is essential before you buy. With the array of liquid foundations currently available there's no excuse not to get a perfect match.
5. Check eye-shadows for pigment on the back of your hand (e.g. if the eye-shadow leaves an intense colour/mark, you know it has a good level of pigment). Another good tip, if the eye shadow is bright/strong, ask the assistant to apply some for you. (E.g. a burnt orange eye-shadow may look fantastic on the back of your hand but might be totally the wrong colour for your eyes!)

These might sound like obvious tips but I think it's good to remind ourselves every now and then so we avoid stocking up on the wrong types of product (by 'wrong' I mean products we were never really that convinced by or those that aren't particularly flattering).

Back to my Bobbi Brown purchase - I may, or may not return it (my only quibble is that I could feel it on my skin during the day and it came off quite easily on my hands/clothes, but I guess that's what you pay for with dewy skin?).  Whatever I decide, I regret not asking for a sample.

Do you have any beauty counter experiences - enjoyable or hellish - that you'd like to share?

How to travel with make-up (...without resorting to tipping the entire contents of your make-up drawer into your suitcase)

Who needs clothes anyway

Boys have it easy, right? When traveling they can pretty much get away with a toothbrush, toothpaste, razor and shaving gel (maybe some aftershave if they're feeling lucky). Take the metrosexual male - that breed of late nineties/early noughties man who has dabbled in male moisturiser and succumbed to its powers of hydration - even he would be hard pushed to produce a bigger bath bag than us when going on holiday.

So how do we do it? Is there a secret to taking 50 beauty products on holiday without looking like we could set up shop there?

I flew to Australia last month for my sister's wedding and knowing I'd be doing her make-up and that of 4 others on the day, I knew I'd have to be strategic about my packing. Here are my top tips:

1. Write a list. Then halve it.

It's important to pack the essentials first, then decide on the nice-to-haves:

- toothbrush & toothpaste

- lip balm (Vaseline mini pots are fantastic, as is Lucas' Papaw)

- sunscreen (Khiel's Ultra Light Daily Moisturiser boasts SPF50)

I would also add a decent hair conditioner to this list, as well as body moisturiser (there's nothing more stress-inducing on holiday than not being able to detangle your locks after a shower, or the feeling of tight, scaly skin).

The perfect base under any make-up

2. Invest in travel containers
Both Boots and Muji do fantastic, refillable plastic containers for around £2. My favourite find was Boots' Mini Travel Set - a bargainous £3 for 2x 26ml bottles and 2x 10gm cream pots (tip: be careful not to screw on the lids too zealously as they can crack)

You'll wonder how you previously traveled without them

3. Buy some sticky labels 
I know, this screams 'organised freak' but it is deeply satisfying (try it). The white round labels from Rymans cost just £1.19 for 90.

4. Protect expensive compacts from annoying breakages
Like it or not, your case is likely to be treated in the same way a WWF contender welcomes his opponent into the ring. With gusto. To ensure your favourite Chanel/Dior eyeshadow quad or powder compact survives the journey, place a sheet of kitchen towel between make-up and lid, then seal the entire compact with cling film (it also helps to place compacts in-between layers of clothes for added protection).

Worth protecting

5. Brushes
Brushes might be the last thing you think about taking with you on holiday but they're the unsung heros of the beauty counter and are as light as a feather. Not only do they generally make make-up application look infinitely more polished, they can also help to make your holiday make-up go further. Tips: transform any eyeshadow into an eyeliner using an ultra fine liner brush and a little water. Or, to save packing multiple lipsticks, bring along a retractable lip brush together with a couple of brightly coloured lip pencils (use the lip brush to blend in some clear gloss or lip balm over the lip pencil et voila).

Laura Mercier's Fine Point Eye Liner Brush (£20.50) is all you need

What are your beauty-packing secrets?

HD ready? I'll just be in make-up...

The lovely Kate Silverton

Last Saturday (18 June 2011) The Daily Telegraph reported that the BBC is currently 'seeking help with its image problem' in the form of a new team of dedicated make-up artists to help cope with the switch to HD.

The corporation has always had make-up artists but the pressures of high-definition television, 'with its tendency to highlight every imperfection', have pushed the brand to reassess its makeup resources in order to ensure presenters look consistently flawless.

High-def television is also putting pressure on make-up brands to develop products more suited to the technology. The U.S. brand Make-up Forever was one of the first off the mark when it launched its High Definition Complexions range back in 2008.

In June 2011, Makeup Forever are waving the HD-ready flag with a new campaign fronted by Leo's new girl - and soon-to-be SATC's new Carrie - actress Blake Lively.

The premise behind the campaign, which has already appeared in magazines in the UK, is that with Makeup Forever's HD range, there is no need for retouching. A bold claim. But with low brand awareness in the UK its unlikely Makeup Forever will storm the UK market. As with all beauty innovations I'm sure it won't be long before more established brands launch their own versions.

Products aside, ultimately its going to come down to the artists themselves and their ability to create a flawless but natural look (no mean feat, particularly at 4am).

Miracle cream or social media phenomenon?

As if we needed another reason to  ♥  Waitrose...

A story caught my attention in the press.

The events actually happened a couple of years ago but I keep stumbling across references to it every now and then. It's worth mentioning because it serves to highlight three things:

1. the power of testimonial
2. social media has the ability to drive sales much faster than traditional forms of media
3. sometimes the most basic products can be transformed into beauty must-haves

It's a story about how, literally overnight, a white-label supermarket product sparked one of the biggest beauty discoveries since YSL's Touche Eclat (fortunately, not of the same pricey ilk).

The story goes like this...

One day, a mum uploads a comment on Mumsnet:

"I can't even remember what made me put it on my face one day but OMG - it is fab. I have been using it constantly for 2 weeks now and my skin now has the smoothest texture, which I don't think it's had since prepubescence. And it makes my foundation look super dewy and youthful too. It is SO much better than all the expensive face creams I have tried - including Creme de la Mer."


Wow. You can imagine the response. It's the kind of testimonial brands can only fantasise about. 


Shortly afterwards, other mums started to upload their own joyous anecdotes about the miracle butter, and unsurprisingly, Waitrose Baby Bottom Butter sold out within weeks. In fact, the demand for the miracle cream became so great that Waitrose was able to shift the equivalent of a 14 year supply in the
space of just 12 months (you do the maths).


Some of the press headlines included:
Supermarket stampede as women slap £2.49 baby 'bottom butter' on their faces (Daily Mail)


Let's face it, Baby Bottom Butter is better on your cheeks (The Guardian)


Perhaps the astonishing rise in sales of Waitrose Baby Bottom Butter can be attributed to the fact a consumer happened to compare it to one of the most premium face creams on the planet; Creme de la Mer. Dropping a brand name like that is surely going to cause a few eyes to widen. 


Whatever the reason, even after the dermatological effects of the butter were investigated and experts were openly skeptical about the supposed benefits, sales continued to rise. Perhaps because at £2.50, you can't really go wrong.

DIY Wedding Makeup?

Kate* Middleton. You’ve got to hand it to her. 

According to the National Press over the weekend – more specifically, Sali Hughes, Beauty Director for The Guardian – Kate did her own makeup on her wedding day.

Let’s just pause and think about this for a second.

Most brides will tell you it’s a good idea to hire a Professional Makeup Artist to take care of your makeup on your wedding day. This is often because brides worry that their nerves will get the better of them, preventing them from being able to do their makeup to the best of their ability (or worse, leaving them with no option but to ask one of the bridesmaids to do it at the last minute).

Having a Makeup Artist (MUA) there on the day can certainly take the pressure off (providing you hire the right one!). But it also means you’re pretty much guaranteed to look your best as you walk up the aisle to meet your betrothed.

Back to Kate. Not only did she decide to do her own makeup on her wedding day (this in itself is most impressive), but, she did it on the day she married an English Prince, on the telly, and in front of an estimated 2 billion people worldwide.

Brave? Sheer madness, surely.

I mean, it’s not as if she didn’t have the budget for an MUA?! (For those of you new to bridal makeup, prices vary depending on who you get but it can range from anywhere between £100 to £400/£500).

Perhaps it was a strategic decision of Kate’s/her advisors for Kate to do her own makeup, one designed to add a personal touch to an overall look which had been so highly considered.

Let’s look at what Kate did…

My first thought upon seeing her makeup was ‘Blimey, that’s a strong eye!’ (Kate had used rather a lot of dark eyeliner – I’d say definitely too much for a wedding – around the eyes).

My second thought – conscious of my eight years experience in bridal makeup – was more of a nervous doubting of my own knowledge. Had I missed the memo? Are heavily kholed eyes now ‘in’ for weddings? (Note: unless you’re an Indian bride or of Greek/Italian descent, dark khol is a no-no). 

Perhaps Kate was worried her eye-makeup wouldn’t show up on the telly? Who knows. Sally agrees, saying the ‘excessive khol eyeliner..[would]…date an otherwise timeless look’.

Other than the heavy khol, I thought her makeup was really rather beautiful. I didn’t mind the ‘orangey blusher’ (which looked far more peachy/pinky from where I was sitting) and her lips maintained a lovely softness throughout the service, avoiding any kind of heavy gloss (equally disastrous for wedding makeup, not least because it sticks to the veil!). Kate has lovely brows but I would definitely have softened them.

According to other online sources, including Vogue.co.uk, Kate had lessons with a Makeup Artist before the day (names vary but Vogue suggests it was Arabella Preston). Still doesn't change the fact she did something most brides would really rather not have to worry about on their wedding day. Good on you Kate.

Sally goes onto say in the Guardian feature, ‘Kate just looked like herself’. Which is how it should be. I’m just disappointed there wasn’t a Makeup Artist Reveal(!) story following the wedding for me to dissect and admire…

What did you think of Kate’s makeup?

* Please note: I have chosen to use the Duchess of Cambridge's name, 'Kate', as she is more affectionately known, throughout this article, rather than Katherine, to highlight her normality as a former general member of the public. It is not my intention to offend or to be disrespectful to Her Royal Highness.