Everything you need to know about sunscreens (well, almost everything)

Living in the UK I'm used to the sun being pretty darn temperamental ("She's out! Nope, she's gone back in again!" *sigh*) but sunscreens are a year-round topic I have long wanted to address on this blog.

Questions such as "should I be wearing sunscreen everyday, even in winter?" and "how do I know my sunscreen is working?" have prompted me to investigate.

For your reading pleasure I've written up a summary of my findings (time to grab a cuppa). Alternatively, if you'd like to cut straight to my favourite SPF products click here.

Before you read on
It's important you know there is a heck of a lot of conflicting information and opinion out there (researching this post has definitely lead to me wanting to tear my hair out!!). Whilst I don't pretend to have all the answers (far from it) it is my hope this post will at least prompt you to think about the ways in which you are currently protecting your skin and what changes you could make (today?tomorrow?!)...to be more sun safe.

The questions I aim to answer

• What exactly is SPF?
• How does it work?
• What is the difference between a mineral and non-mineral (chemical) SPF and which is better for me?
• How can I be more sun safe?

YOUR SPF CHEAT SHEET 

What is SPF?

SPF is a rating which stands for 'Sun Protection Factor'. It was commercially introduced sometime during the mid-60s/70s by the founder of Piz Buin, Swiss chemist Franz Greiter. 

How does SPF work?

SPF is a topical product which comes in the form of a cream, oil or mist. It is applied directly to the skin as a way of absorbing (and converting into heat) or reflecting the sun's rays. 

Why do we need SPF?

The sun (as much as we love it ) produces 2 types of harmful radiation known as gamma rays.

A quick way to remember them is:
UVBurn
UVAgeing

1. UVB rays
UVB penetrates the epidermis, or top layer of the skin, leading to a reddening of the skin (if unprotected) and eventually sunburn. 

2. UVA rays
The longer and more prevalent of the two rays, UVA will penetrate the skin at a deeper level, right down to the dermis and beneath it. UVA rays cause DNA damage (at cell level). This causes the collagen within the dermis to break down and lines to form (wrinkling). Long-term exposure to UVA is one of the leading causes of ageing.

Both types of UV radiation play key roles in the development of skin cancers.

Darling, you missed a bit

Higher? Lower? (Brucey voice optional)

Wearing SPF will protect your skin from absorbing radiation (which we know can be harmful when skin is exposed over a period of time), however, the rating system currently offers a number of different 'strengths' which can be confusing. 

Did you know that there is minimal difference between the percentage of UVB rays blocked by a product labeled SPF 15 versus one labeled SPF 50? (I did not know this!)

SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays

SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays 

SPF 50+ blocks 98% of UVB rays

Source: badgerbalm.com

NB: The SPF rating can also refer to the number of minutes a person can be in the sun before they will burn. 

Broad spectrum
The majority of SPF products now state they protect against both UVB and UVA (e.g. 'Broad spectrum')  but if in doubt, check for this on the label. 

You may also come across a PA rating which is indicated by a number of '+'s (e.g. PA +++). Developed in Asia, the PA rating measures the level of protection against UVA and the more '+'s are indicated on the label the better (currently goes up to a maximum of four depending on the country. Don't ask me to explain anything else about the PA rating. The articles I've read have made my eyes go funny).

Mineral versus chemical
This is where my brain raises a very weary hand and begs to go home early. I've read oodles on this but am still unable to give you a clear 'which is better for you' answer. I'm not sure anyone can at this stage given the amount of research that is still underway (more so outside the US).

What I can do is save you the headache of researching this topic by summarising some of the key facts and findings about each below:

• A mineral sunscreen will contain either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, or a combination of the two. Both minerals block* UV rays and are not absorbed by the skin**.

* To give you an example of how mixed the information is online I've read articles which state that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide physically block or reflect the sun's rays (1, 2, 3), whilst other articles say 'zinc oxide absorbs UV and turns it into comparably harmless infrared, which it disposes of as heat.' (Source). I guess the point is it doesn't matter how the ingredients deal with the sun's rays, as long as we're protected!)

**  toxicity levels of less than 0.01% have been recorded in people using sunscreens containing zinc oxide. Small fry (pardon the pun) when compared to chemical sunscreen ingredient Oxybenzone (bad boy of the bunch) which has been found in mother's milk(!) and produced toxicity levels of a whopping 1-9%.

• A chemical sunscreen will contain include ingredients such as:

Avobenzone (offers high UVA protection)

Octinoxate (I would avoid using this based on this article alone!)

Oxybenzone (this one regularly gets a bad rap)

Helioplex (contains avobenzone and oxybenzone and was developed by Neutrogena)

Mexoryl SX and XL (developed by L'Oreal and FDA approved in 2006)

Homosalate (used in a whopping 45% of US sunscreens, multiple concerns with this one)

Pros: 

- Unlike mineral sunscreens, chemical sunscreens do not reflect white (are generally colourless, unless part of a hybrid sunscreen) and are therefore more appealing cosmetically/aesthetically, particularly when it comes to being worn in conjunction with makeup.

Cons: 

- Application is required 20 minutes before sun exposure so the product has time for the chemicals to be absorbed by the skin.

- Can cause allergic reactions, increase the production of free radicals (bad for the skin) and disrupt hormones (I found this article really interesting. Scroll down to 'Chemical Sunscreens').

• A hybrid sunscreen will contain a combination of mineral and chemical ingredients.

What do I think?

• I've read enough to question whether not wearing sunscreen is the only or primary cause of skin cancer ('there is no evidence that excess sun exposure causes melanoma, while there is data showing that chronic sun exposure and vitamin D seem to prevent it'; Source). Confused? LOL.
• There are other ways to protect oneself from UV rays (diet, covering up, seeking shade etc)
• In terms of the key ingredients currently available zinc oxide seems to be coming out on top. Reasons include: it's mineral and therefore not absorbed by the skin (although see my note above re. 0.01%); it protects against UVB and UVA (you'll need to do your own research to discover just how much UVA protection is offered by zinc oxide but I have read that zinc oxide is more effective than titanium dioxide at protecting against UVA); is recommended for babies/toddlers and for those with sensitive skin (is non-allergenic)

Oversized sun hat, ASOS, £16

Ways to be more sun safe

• Wear a hat (anything goes! But beware of baseball caps that don't protect the sides of your face or your neck)
• Wear comfortable, loose fitting clothing (pref long sleeved and covering your legs somehow)
• Where possible, sit/stand/sleep in the shade
• Wear a high factor (SPF 30+) cream when doing outside sports
• Give coconut oil a whirl (it has a natural SPF of 10). Just don't sit out there for hours in it!
• Opt for fake tan!

Glossary
melanin: a brown pigment in the skin. Increases after sun exposure. Melanin protects the skin by absorbing UVB and UVA radiation, dissipating the energy as harmless heat. It can only do this up until a point (hence why we need SPF).

melanoma: a type of skin cancer

Further reading and watching
Sun, Sunscreen, Skin Cancer and Safety: How Much do You Need? (article is from 2010 but is very thorough) http://www.kitchenstewardship.com/2010/07/20/sun-sunscreen-skin-cancer-and-safety-how-much-do-you-need/

Is my sunscreen toxic?
http://draxe.com/75-of-sunscreens-are-toxic-what-to-do-instead/

The Trouble With Sunscreens
http://www.ewg.org/2015sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/

Coconut Oil - A Natural SPF
http://naturalsociety.com/ditch-toxic-sunscreen-use-coconut-oil-instead/

Lisa Eldridge's Stay Younger, Longer - the Lowdown on Sunscreens (20 min vid)
http://www.lisaeldridge.com/video/27000/youth-in-a-tube-the-lowdown-on-sunscreen/#.VcIJLOtH22w

Understanding UVA and UVB 
http://www.skincancer.org/prevention/uva-and-uvb/understanding-uva-and-uvb

Image credits: Pinterest and Shutterstock

3 SPF products I've been loving this summer

For your reading pleasure I've written a summary of my investigative findings about sunscreens (here). But if you'd rather cut straight to my top 3 SPF products this summer, read on.

Before I get down to the nitty gritty I thought I'd share what's recently prompted me to write, not one, but two posts on sun protection.

Me, myself and the sun
As someone who's about to enter her (*cough*) late 30s I often find myself thinking way more about my skin than I did in my 20s. And let's not even mention the time I regularly applied factor two(!) tanning oil (??! OMHG) during the middle of the day whilst on a gap year in Argentina aged 19. No, let's not. Suffice to say I've not been the strictest of sunscreen wearers over the years.

Excuse me, there seems to be a brown splodge on my right cheek
I first noticed The Mark shortly after returning to London following a three year stint in Melbourne and Madrid (long story). I guess being back in Blighty enabled my skin to return to its natural hue and as I got paler the sun spot became more obvious. I'm convinced it's because I didn't wear enough sunscreen.

An old friend of mine (thanks CK) recently commented she thought it had got bigger which has prompted me to make an appointment with my GP to see if I can be referred to a consultant dermatologist. At this stage I'd rather not tackle it with any pigmentation creams until I know what's what (although there are plenty on the market).

Hands
If I had a penny (or preferably a pound) for every time an older lady has told me there are two things that give away a woman's age: her face and her hands. Well, I'd be MINTED.

I'm starting to notice I have one or two 'bigger' freckles on the tops of my hands (otherwise known as age spots....euuush. Actually, how does one know when a freckle is a freckle and not an age spot? Answers in the comments box below please!)

There's a simple solution to this folks. It's called SPF. But in winter, who remembers to apply SPF to the backs of their hands? NO-ONE. Shall we start?!


My décolleté (or décolletage)
I'll save you an image of my chest (you're welcome) but I've noticed there are slightly more freckles on it than there were before (and some of those larger freckles I was talking about). A sign perhaps that I need to be protecting it more?

And we've all seen it...the 'creypeyness' that befalls the best of us. Well it's gonna happen ladies...and that's totally OK! But the longer we can stave it off the better.

3 SPF products I'm using and loving this Summer... (drum roll)
I have lots of other SPF products in my bathroom but these are the ones I keep coming back to.

1. Estée Lauder Sheer Tint Release Moisturiser (SPF15, pictured above)
I need to say something here....<long pause>

This is one of my best makeup purchases.

Ever.

I know. HUGE. 

I first came across Estée Lauder's Sheer Tint Release during a stint working for Chantecaille  in Fenwick, Bond Street. The EL counter was then bang opposite the Chantecaille counter and it wasn't long before I started noticing women coming up to the counter to enquire about something and then leaving practically wailing in despair. Turns out the product they were after (you guessed it) had been out of stock for ages. Well I'm pleased to report it's very much back IN stock and is bl*ody marvellous.

What is it?
It's a type of tinted moisturiser but very sheer. The genius of it is that when rubbed into the skin (it first comes out a very strange pale grey colour) it develops into a warm tint. In the summer I use it to warm up my skin (I have to blend a little down my neck because I'm so pale) and then if I feel like I need a little extra coverage, I'll go in with one of my regular tinted moisturisers (e.g. Chantecaille Just Skin) or a light-weight foundation, blending across chin, cheeks, nose and forehead (t-zone basically).

Who's it for?
Estée Lauder say everyone but I'd say if you're olive or deep skin-toned it'll feel more like a radiance primer. It's brilliant for light skin tones which err on the paler side. I'd also say it's more suited to normal to dry skin types as it feels wonderfully hydrating (I can imagine it feeling 'a bit shiny' on combination or oily skins).

Benefits

• SPF 15 and broad spectrum (protects against UVA and UVB)
• Non-comedogenic (won't clog pores)
• Hydrating 
• Radiance boosting (evens out skin tone)
• Anti-oxidant protection (helps fight free radicals which can cause premature ageing)

RRP: £38-40 for 50ml

2. Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection (SPF 50 and +++)
I learnt a lot about this product working for Chantecaille and it really is fantastic for several reasons:

• It's a chemical sunscreen. The principle ingredient is avobenzone (one of the better SPF chemical ingredients out there. For more info on mineral versus chemical sunscreens, click here). 
• It leaves skin beautifully matte which is UNHEARD of in the world of sunscreens. (Because it's chemical, and not mineral, it doesn't leave your skin with a white finish or flash back in photographs). When I'm wearing it (like in this photo) I barely feel like I've got anything on and it leaves my skin feeling quite velvet *purr*.
• It's an anti-glycation primer (a what now?). Glycation is the process by which sugars attack proteins in the skin ultimately affecting the production and quality of collagen and elastin. This product protects against that.

The downside?

It ain't cheap. In fact, so spenny is it (£76) I've been eeking out the samples I was given a while back. But I know it's only a matter of time before I buy.

RRP: £76 for 50ml

3. Piz Buin Ultra Light Hydrating Sun Spray (SPF30)
The smell, oh the smell!! I've never been to Barbados or the Seychelles but THIS IS WHAT I IMAGINE THEY SMELL LIKE.

I used to wear whatever sunscreen was in my mum's cupboard at the time but a trip to Australia a couple of years ago prompted me to invest in some 'decent' sun protection and this was the one I'd always wanted to buy.

I highly recommend the cream formula if you're prone to dry skin (this is a broad spectrum chemical sunscreen; key ingredient is Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine which protects the skin by absorbing UV rays).

I can't seem to find the 'Ultra Light' product anymore which leads me to think they've changed their formula but I'm now a convert to their range so I'd definitely invest again.

Tip: Boots often do a BOGOF or similar promo on Biz Buin (they've got one on right now!). Last time I bought the spray and the cream and alternate between the two.

RRP: between £5-£20

How about you?
What's your go-to SPF? Have you changed brands over the years and if so why? Has anyone tried Institut Esthederm? I keep reading really good things but will need to wait for the big bucks to come in before I can invest (come ON big bucks! :))

Image credit: H&M campaign