Makeup artists: Protect your back

Image: Corbis

Protecting your back is not really something they teach you at beauty school (although I'd love to see it added to the curriculum).

It makes perfect sense that standing on your feet for long periods of time whilst twisting and turning to get the perfect angle can't be good for your back, right? To find out why I decided to interview the woman who has changed the way I work - and stand - to get her take on it.

The Makeup Debate: Hi Alex, great to chat! Why is Pilates so good for your back?

Alex: Pilates helps to create 'axial elongation', or that is to say, a lengthening of the spine. The spine is meant to move in all directions - forwards, backwards, sideways - but sadly we find ourselves in jobs and situations where we rarely move and this is what causes the discs in the spine to dry up. 

Pilates exercises help to lubricate the discs in between each joint whilst strenthening the muscles along the back and front of the the trunk. It's no wonder people often leave sessions feeling longer, taller and massaged!

The Makeup Debate: Sounds great! OK, so let's imagine I'm a Pilates virgin...where do I start?!

Alex: Stretching is a great place to start. When you first get out of bed in the morning stand with your arms reaching up and over your head. Yawn, sing in the shower!...anything to fill your lungs with nourishing air. 

If you have a spare minute another great exercise is to get down briefly on all fours and flex and extend your spine. I like to imagine I'm a cat stretching out in front of a fire place.

Did you know you can also do Pilates on your way to work? Standing on a busy train (or bus) with your feet hip width apart...can you stabilize the front and back of your body? I.e. can you not hold on and use your abdominal muscles to support you? Go with the wobbles (be wary of the handbags, elbows and tutting passengers!). To stop yourself from falling try and pull the front and back of your body together by creating an imaginary corset around the trunk. Try doing this for 5 days straight and you'll really start to feel it working.

If your back starts to hurt in the evening a simple and effective exercise is to lie on your back and hug your knees to your chest. This will release your lower back. Next, place your feet on the floor and gently tilt your pelvis forward and backwards. 

The Makeup Debate: As a makeup artist I have to spend long periods of time on my feet. How can I save my back?

Alex: 

Long periods standing will put pressure on your lower back so you must take the weight off your feet as many times as possible. Rather than twisting your back to get the right angle, try shifting your feet more while you work and bend at the hips. 

Core exercises will also make you more aware of your torso which in turn will make you less likely to bend into awkward positions. It's worth finding one or two that you can do easily in the morning or before bed (e.g. 'the hundred', or the 'plank').

When you have a break between clients, it's good to stretch your back a little. You can do this by sitting on a chair with your feet flat on the floor. Slowly bend over pulling your head towards your knees (think 'brace' on an airplane).  Try it with your hands pressing gently behind your head to apply a little bit of pressure. 

Remember all you makeup artists out there...keep moving like a tiger in the jungle!

About Alex:

Alex Considine (that's right, she's wearing a festive hat) is, in my humble opinion, a Pilates guru. Aside from being an awesome gal with an exuberant approach to teaching, Alex truly opened my eyes to a series of exercises that have not only relieved my back pain but that I know will have protected my back in the long run (thank you Alex!)

If you would like to experience one of Alex's classes for yourself, why not drop into one of her fantastic 1.5 hour workshops, held once a month at the Urdang Dance Academy in Islington (map). Heck, might even see you there!

pilatesexcellence.com

Outstanding Makeup Discovery of 2013

I'm about to say something highly controversial.

I think I may have found the best mascara. 

Ever.

Judging criteria:
- lengthening [tick]
- volumising [tick]
- conditioning [tick]
- lash growth boosting [tick tick!]
- deep carbon black [tick]
- doesn't transfer onto lower lash line [tick]
- cheap [erm....*cough*...well not exactly....]

Kiss your falsies goodbye and say hello to new, fluttery lashes!

OK so it's not cheap (it's £60!!). I know. But bear with me...

Full name: Chantecaille Faux Cils Longest Lash Mascara

Claims:

• a unique growth-boosting peptide stimulates keratin genes which encourages stronger, longer lashes* 
• it contains conditioning rosewater (naturally antibacterial so particularly great for contact lens wearers)
• a special combination of natural waxes and full bristle brush delivers fabulous volume and curl

*25% in just 2 weeks!

But here's the interesting part not to mention the reason why I've decided to name it my 'Outstanding Makeup Discovery of 2013'.

I first started using my Longest Lash mascara in December 2012....and it's still going in November 2013, almost a year later?!! It hasn't dried out or gone clumpy, it still smells divinely of rosewater 11 months on... and my lashes are the longest they've ever been (I used Talika Lipocils for about 6 months in an attempt to boost my some-what feeble lashes and it didn't have any way near as great an effect as the Chantecaille mascara). The proof is most definitely in the pudding with this one...you have to experience it.

Image courtesy of Chantecaille

Cost per wear
Like lots of girls I like to justify my ever-so-infrequent premium purchases with a cost per wear calculation. It makes me feel less guilty somehow (lol).

So if the Chantecaille Longest Lash mascara is an eye-watering £60 and I have worn it every day since December of last year (i.e. let's say 335 days) that equates to 17p per wear, or £5.45 per month. Now I don't know about you but any £20 mascara I've ever bought has generally started going dry around about the 3 month mark so a fiver a month for a mascara that won't dry out, boosts my lash growth and conditions my lashes? Feels like a no-brainer to me!

Zombie Apocalypse in Camden!

I was recently asked by the wonderful people at Backyard Cinema if I would do zombie makeup for the launch of their three day Halloween extravaganza. How could I refuse?!

We got the actors ready inside an enormous storage facility at the back of Camden Lock market which was sufficiently cold and damp to get us in the mood!

The indoor market was dressed as if the Apocalypse had arrived with zombies taking over the world. Imposing army men patrolled the bar and theatre and I have to say, the whole set up felt unnervingly realistic!

I've done zombie makeup before but this time I wanted to focus more on the contouring of the skin, creating the appearance of hollowed, sallow skin (eugh) with veins showing through here and there (that bit was super fun).

Des and Beth - the two actors playing the zombies - have worked in horror before so were game to wear contacts. I think they really add to the look.

Whenever I do Halloween makeup (unsurprisingly, about once a year) I might watch one or two YouTube tutorials to get me in the mood. I came across this one which I loved (apart from the 'boils' bit at the end which made me want to vom)...but the contouring and bruising using lipstick bit is fab.

Backyard Cinema's Zombie Apocalypse is on until Saturday. Highly recommend. Plus Honest Burgers are available in the bar (need I say more?!)

Backyardcinema.co.uk
Tickets £14 (Earlybird £12)

Because [it's] worth it

486 days worth. 

Makeup is expensive. Fact. Even when you're buying everything at Boots rather than at Harrods it soon adds up.

Did you know the average makeup bag holds 16 items and is worth £130 and that at home collections rise to £512? Yep. And that's just the average.

I want to tell you about a product I believe is insanely good value for money when it comes to cost per use.

Laura Mercier's Secret Camouflage.

For those of you unfamiliar with this cult concealer, it's a bit of a work horse. Here's why:

- It has a unique colour blending format (2 shades enable you to custom blend as well as adjust your concealer throughout the year according to how light/tanned you are)
- It's full coverage which means it covers redness/spots/thread veins beautifully
- Once in place it stays. All day.

I must have bought the Secret Camouflage you see above well over a year ago and I use a little everyday. So let's assume I bought it in June 2012. That's approximately 486 days ago (give or take a day) / £26 = £0.05 per day. I think that's pretty good value and how many products can we say we actually get through?

How to use it
This is a fantastic product if you like wearing a light to medium coverage foundation (or tinted moisturiser) but just need a little help evening out your skin tone here and there.

• Apply a light veil of foundation/tinted moisturiser 
• Using a concealer or lip brush, pick up a little of the two colours* and apply to any areas of redness (e.g. around the nose, on the chin, blemishes, thread veins etc). 
• IMPORTANT STEP: once in position, press into the skin to blend using your ring finger
• Set over any concealed areas with a little powder
• Finish your makeup as normal

*You can also mix the two colours on the back of your hand (I find I need to do this in the winter months when the concealer is cold).

I wouldn't recommend using this product under the eyes as it can look heavy but it can certainly be blended with something lighter (YSL Touche Èclat or No 7 Instant Radiance Concealer).

Look out next week when I'll be revealing my best makeup discovery this year! 

Why do we wear makeup? Part II

© Chris Bretz; hair & makeup: Natalie James Makeup

In Part I of this post on why we wear makeup, I posed the question: Is wearing makeup a primal activity? Secondary to this question is this: if (for argument's sake) makeup were a primal activity....just WHO are we wearing it for?

Throughout history, humans have marked their faces, bodies and nails as a form of communication, self expression and to attract others (initially sexually and latterly to signify social status). We know that modern day makeup has the ability to enhance and in some cases completely alter a person’s features (think eyelash extensions, coloured contact lenses). When we go on a date we might choose to wear a brightly coloured lipstick as we know this draws the attention of the viewer (male or female). Or we might wear slightly more eye makeup to draw more attention to our eyes (therefore encouraging eye contact). But at work? What’s appropriate? And if we do wear a little makeup (or a lot), just who are we wearing it for?

I recently did a quick survey amongst a handful of businesswomen and the majority (verbal) response was that they wear makeup for themselves (to boost confidence and poise) but – AND HERE'S THE INTERESTING THING – they wear it *mostly* for other women.

Is wearing makeup to work therefore perhaps a way of gaining kudos from other female employees? A way to fit in?

When a woman wears an item of makeup – or say a pair of shoes – that are fashion forward and subsequently openly celebrated by her female colleagues, what’s the effect on the men in the office?

Q: For as many points as we’re scoring with our female peers, could we be giving out completely the wrong signal to our male counterparts?

A businesswoman told me anecdotally that she’d bought a fuchsia pink lipstick one Saturday (bang on trend for S/S13, top marks!) and had decided to wear it to the office on Monday morning (hmm). Whilst her female colleagues cooed at the 'brightness and oh, the texture!' of the lipstick (not to mention how it off-set her navy silk top beautifully), the male members of her team found it distracting. Kinda gets you thinking doesn't it...

Have you ever worn a shade of lipstick or eye shadow to the office and regretted it? 

If you missed out on Part I you can read it here.

To continue the debate on whether makeup is a primal activity or more of a social acceptance tool, post your thoughts in the comment box below.

For more information about The Makeup Debate talks and workshops, visit our website.

Why do we wear makeup? Part I

© Alice Luker; makeup by Natalie James Makeup

Every couple of months, my friend and I – storyteller, blogger and all round ball of energy Chris Packe – meet for coffee. We have the most wonderful conversations, many of which seem to circle around one particular topic: human behaviour. 

This morning, as Chris eked out a large pot of Darjeeling and I necked my second cappuccino of the day (argh, must cut down)...the word 'primal' came up. A lot. 

This is unsurprising because Chris is fascinated by the role primal instincts play in our daily lives. He is also intrigued by our ability (and to a greater extent society's) to suppress them. From my side, well, I guess it got me thinking about the role makeup plays, specifically in the workplace, and whether we would define the act of wearing makeup as a primal activity? And if (for argument's sake) wearing makeup were a primal activity... just WHO are we wearing it for?

© James Champion; makeup: Natalie James Makeup

There's no doubt, it's a big question to ask and one that engenders all sorts of awkward shifting in chairs. I'm sure many of us would balk at the idea of there being any underlying, subconscious sexual impulses at play when choosing how to dress or what makeup to wear to the office (unless we're single of course but, even then, there are limits aren't there girls!).

For me, to question why we wear makeup is a question worth asking, particularly given the social shift taking place currently in the workplace (What’s that then?)

© Seun Shote; makeup & nails: Natalie James Makeup

Ladies (and gents) something is happening in business circles that I refer to in my talks as ‘The Rise of the Feminine’. It's a hot topic right now for women in business and commentators on the subject refer to it in different ways. Essentially The Rise of the Feminine represents a cultural shift in the way women are perceived in business...that feminine qualities, in particular feminine leadership qualities such as the ability to listen, to nurture the group and to multitask, are being heralded and actively sought out by companies because of the positive impact fostering such qualities can have on business growth.

But what do feminine leadership qualities have to do with wearing makeup?

Well for one, this shift alters our view of what a successful businesswoman should look like. Gone are the days where a woman feels the need to dress and act like a man to get ahead. Women are dressing in a much more feminine way (Note, I don't mean sexual here, but feminine in the sense of softer fabrics, more feminine cuts and patterns). I once interviewed a female banker who said 'the more feminine I dressed the better I performed'. Why? I'd chance a guess it has a lot to do with authenticity.

Of course there is always a balance to be struck depending on your industry, your role and your age (controversial I know) but The Rise of the Feminine is visibly changing the status quo and for that reason alone it's worth thinking about. Right?

Part II of this conversation continues here.

To continue the debate on whether makeup is a primal activity or more of a social acceptance tool, post your thoughts in the comment box below.

For more information about The Makeup Debate talks and workshops, visit our website.

Favouring the undone

image: gq-magazine.co.uk

Woah, that Harry Styles.

Now, I'm old enough to be his mother (eek..well, almost) and whilst I'm in no way a One Direction fan (unlike my friend B! Tsk) the cover of GQ certainly caught my eye this month...but not for the reason you think.

It was actually Harry's brows that caught my eye, in particular the one on the right. Why? Because his brows are 'undone', slightly askew, and not preened to perfection. Which I liked. He is a man, after all (ahem, OK, a young man).

Harry's brows got me thinking...when it comes to our own makeup, can we get too perfectionist about it all? Is 'undone' a good quality to nurture when it comes to our own routine?

Whenever I find myself doing a bit of male grooming on set I automatically reach for the brow gel and a clean mascara wand (to comb through the brows). But it's always at the back of my mind not to make them too neat. Same goes for concealer...some guys - especially those who are about to be photographed/filmed - need a touch of concealer under the eyes, not a lot, just a little, but in applying it there is always a fine balance.

Photography: © James Champion; hair and makeup: Natalie James Makeup

I love it when boyish/undone makeup enjoys a renaissance in women's magazines and on the catwalks, which it does with unsurprising regularity. The kind of 'barely there' makeup that favours boyish brows and bee-stung lips. There is something quite primal about this look which I've always liked. It seems to allow a woman's femininity to shine through all on its own, giving it a break from the usual mask of kohled eyes and bronzed cheekbones.

I guess the point of this post is to say there can be a time and a place for perfection (gala dinner? wedding?) but that our day-to-day makeup is far best left slightly undone. So what if your eye liner's a bit askew or your lip line not quite perfect. Get out there and don't sweat it. You'll still shine...