Office makeup: Is it really OK to wear what we want?

The other week an article in Stylist (one of my absolute favourite magazines) caused me to spit out the coffee I was drinking. You can read the article here. The main point it was landing was that "office appropriate makeup is over". I.e. all hail individuality in the workplace, regardless of industry.

I'm sorry Stylist but I categorically disagree.

I consider myself a feminist in a modern, 21st century kind of a way (on the subject of feminism someone once famously said something along the lines of 'Believe in equal rights for men and women? Then you're a feminist. It doesn't mean you need to go burn your bra or anything.' Hear hear! Feminists get such a bad rap these days)... I digress.

As a modern day believer in all women I fully embrace and support the freedom to express one's individuality. I just don't believe the workplace is the best (or most strategic) place to do so.

Is it really OK to wear what we want?
In their article Stylist gives four examples of women who are writing their own makeup rules in their jobs. The lady who appears in the picture above, whilst I LOVE her style, works on a trading floor, no doubt outnumbered by hundreds of men. I worry that the look she's opted for as her go-to office makeup look is the equivalent of a siren red lip: aka a sexual 'come hither'.

What I mean by the 'who cares' argument is that whilst women love the Holly Golightly look we need to remember that men see/process makeup differently to women. A classic flick draws attention to the eyes which arguably encourages stronger, perhaps more prolonged eye contact (an indicator - not always - but often, of sexual desire. I acknowledge here that I'm talking purely in heterosexual, male + female terms).

For me the power in a woman's business look comes from the appearance of 'vitality' and from looking presentable and professional. 

Alison, the banker featured above and in the article, herself comments:

"No-one has given me negative feedback, although one client recently commented in a morning meeting that I looked ready for a cocktail party - which I took as a positive."

If one of my clients told me they thought I was about to hit a bar I'd be seriously questioning my look. If we're being paid by a firm to do a job, or even if we're self employed and running our own business, surely we want to look like were 'ready to do the job we're being paid for' and not 'ready to hit the dance floor'?

The male equivalent
In thinking about my response to this topic (hours I tell you, hours) I thought about what the equivalent would be for men. Imagine a male lawyer who loves the Mod era. Would it be appropriate for him to turn up to work everyday with a Mod haircut and sporting mod fashion? In an advertising or communications agency perhaps, yes (everything and anything goes) but in a legal profession? How about in a hospital? In a school? (maybe).

Social constraints
Stylist is right though. There do exist social conventions that have dictated for years what men and women 'should' be wearing to the office (e.g. pinstripe suits for bankers, pencil skirts and heels for secretaries and front of house staff) and perhaps with the 'rise of the feminine' we should be questioning certain constraints, including the makeup we wear.

But I can't help but wonder whether the point of all this is not in expressing ourselves without boundaries but in our ability to intelligently respond to and reflect our environment.

We've all seen documentary film makers enter unknown villages for the first time, villages where their inhabitants have, until now, been unexposed to western civilisation. These film makers don't go barging in, flinging their iPhones or Fitbits around. They mimic the responses of the people they're visiting. They're respectful, humble. Likewise, in the workplace, one could argue it's important to reflect the values of the company we work for or the industry we represent.

No-one likes to feel ostracised, particularly amongst our peers, and in a world where individuality can be unfairly criticised and misinterpreted why would we want to run the risk of overshadowing our talent with a look that screams 'Look at me'?

It's all in the balance
You might be reading this thinking 'how unbelievably dull, to all look the same!'. That's not what I mean at all. There are always ways to hint at a bigger, louder stamp on the world, but shouting it from the rooftops cannot but detract from the thing we actually want people to see and respect: our capability.

One of the things I teach my clients is to recognise the power of 'the new femininity' in the workplace. Gone are the days (THANK GOD) of the power dressing of the 80s and 90s, where women (Margaret Thatcher is a classic example of this) would dress and even learn to talk like a man in order to compete/be heard. Today, subtle and feminine makeup, is the new power dressing. Successful and intelligent role models such as Angela Ahrendts, Christine Lagarde, even Angelina Jolie are all demonstrating empowerment through more overtly feminine styling and makeup. But notice they don't look like they're about to hit a cocktail party.

Angelina in particular pares down her look when representing the UN. I don't see this as a weakness in her at all but rather a sign of respect for the organisation she is representing. Angela Ahrendts on the other hand used to be a pivotal figure in the world of Burberry. Stronger makeup was therefore more 'of the world' she operated in and therefore, arguably more appropriate and representative of the company she worked for. To have worn a pared back look would have looked odd.

There will always be ways in which a woman can subtly hint at her personality at work, and makeup is of course just one way to express who we really are. What I ask my clients to consider are ways of 'hinting at our personalities' in a way that keeps them just under the radar. A 'nod' to something different but without it being the lead vocal. If being strategic in our jobs pays, who's to say being strategic with our personal appearance won't be just as effective?

A comment on this post:
I'm fully expecting to receive some negative feedback in response this post as I recognise the topics raised are both controversial and highly personable to many (including myself). I don't for a minute profess to be a journalist and I'm sure the way I've expressed some, if not all of my opinions is flawed in some way. All I can say is that I feel passionately that whilst I celebrate the freedom that comes with expressing one's own individuality and tastes I can also see that from a business perspective companies are looking for individuals to champion their values. And as intelligent women, why wouldn't we recognise this? I, for one, could not hire a makeup artist who I believed did not represent the kind of makeup advice my company specialises in (natural, considered, office/industry appropriate makeup).

All comments welcome!

Image credits:

Stylist

Tom Ford Fall Winter, 2015/2016

3 makeup no-no's in the office

Too much? How so? 

This one's controversial I know but I bet we can all immediately think of someone at work who, through no fault of their own, just hasn't quite got it right in the makeup department.

Know your audience
I attended a meeting last week at a corporate location in the city and as I listened to the various points of view coming from the people around the table I couldn't help but notice certain things. For example, the lady who was dressed in something entirely innapropirate for her age (I could see what she was trying to do but to me it just looked unprofessional), or the lady who was wearing a bit of makeup (tick) but the wrong shades for her skin tone.

Granted, as a makeup artist, I'm bound to pick up on makeup mishaps more so than the average person. But it did get me thinking: Even if on a subconscious level, just how much of a distraction is a makeup mishap?

And when it comes to office makeup, what are the three 'no no's?

1. Excessive Shine 
One woman in particular had lots of intelligent and insightful things to say but I. Could. Not. Stop. Staring. At. Her. Overly. Shiny. T-zone. *shocked emoji*

Excessive shine is not just the bane of those with oily skin. It has been known to afflict even the driest of skins after a long day in the office - or when too much makeup has been applied - but with the today's formulas there's absolutely zero excuse not to be able to keep shine at bay.

Blot Away
If you're finding your t-zone is shiny mid-way through the day or just before an important meeting, a quick trip to the bathroom with some blot papers (like these) or a blot powder (such as this or this) will do the trick. Blot papers are brilliant because they absorb perspiration without upsetting your makeup and blot powder, well, it does what the name suggests.

Preparation Is Key
If you were born with naturally oily skin (lucky you! You will age BE-AUTIFULLY!) I'd recommend investing in an oil-free foundation for work*. Benefit's Flawless Oxygen Wow foundation dries wonderfully matte, and, whislt not strictly oil-free, I've seen YSL's Fusion Ink Foundation work wonders on oily skin.

*I'm not suggesting here that you wear a medium coverage foundation to the office every single day (I so NEED to do my blog post on combining tinted moisturiser and foundation!!!) but on the important days of the working calendar (presentations, meeting clients, date night after work etc).

Layer Up
Remember too that what you wear under your foundation can make a big difference. Opting for a moisturising lotion instead of a cream, and/or an oil free primer before you apply your foundation, will help to keep your makeup fresh and matte.

2. Get Your Brows Right
In case you've been asleep under a rock the past five years, brows are big news. And not the sparse sixties brow our mothers, aunties (and depending how old you are, grandmothers) sported, but the big, bushy, eat-your-heart-out-Brooke-Shields kind of brow. Note here: Only Cara can get away with the above. Wearing brows that bold to the office won't scream 'Listen to me, I have such interesting thing to say!' but will leave people wondering how you don't name them when you look in the mirror every morning.

There are few things more distracting than an odd-shaped or over-grown brow. Think:

• too thin - well, you can't really go too thick these days. If you're struggling to grow yours try castor oil.
• monobrow - rare in women but occasionally it happens. Deal with it. I love Blink bars. They'll be nice to you and they apply soothing anti-inflammatory lotions at the end.
• brow makeup that's too dark - see: Made In Essex. Probably one of the most common mistakes I see women making after over-plucking. Powder is much more subtle than pencil. Invest in a decent brow brush such as this one.

Ask any beauty editor worth their salt and they'll tell you a groomed natural brow is instantly anti-ageing. Of course, wearing any kind of makeup is a balancing act and the moment we darken our lips or eyes we feel we need something in our brows, but less is always more.

I'm a huge fan of brow mascaras. Not only are they unbelievably convenient (a quick brush through and you're done) but the shades are improving every year. If you're blonde try this and if you're brunette/dark try this.

3. 'Young' Eye Shadow Colour
My heart sinks whenever I see someone wearing bright eye-shadow to the office because it's obvious they clearly enjoy wearing makeup. But any kind of brightly coloured eye-shadow is, I'm afraid, a big no-no. Unless of course you're under the age of 25, have unbelievably clear skin, wear very little makeup other than a flash of bright eye shadow (see above) and work in a creative industry. For the over 30, mere mortals among us it's simply a tricky nut to crack and one not worth attempting.

I'm not saying do not dabble with eye colour but be subtle. A wash of lilac eye shadow can look stunning on someone with green eyes, but unless you're about to head off for lunch with the girls in a floaty summer dress and with very little other makeup on, I'd say stick to neutral eyes.

The best work-day eye for me is a wash of beige or 'greige' (depending on your skin tone) cream eye-shadow, a chocolate brown or grey liner and two quick coats of mascara. Save actual colour for your cheeks or lips (never both).

If you're feeling decadent and it's the season for brights try bringing a pop of colour into your look in other ways. A bright scarf or a pop of colour on the nails but be warned: bright nail varnish in a corporate office, especially on women 'over a certain age', can look cheap and untrustworthy.

The shape of your nails can also make a big difference. Bright colours work far better on shorter, square or squoval nails whilst nudes suit slightly more rounded, longer nails.

In love with the latest coloured eye liner? By all means, work a bit of it into your look but remember the mantra: less is most definitely more. Whenever I wear a coloured liner to a meeting I always soften it by smudging it with a little of my trusty brown eye shadow (MAC Omega if you must know).


The names of individuals mentioned herein, as well as the name of the company in the City, have been deliberately omitted to protect people's privacy.

Image credits: 
Aly Hazelwood, My-Management
Renee Zellweger, Reuters
Cara Delevigne, Jason Wu Spring, 2013
Marc by Marc Jacobs, 2014

Makeup: Is it really OK to wear what we want?

Now here's an interesting question. Do we really think it's OK to wear whatever we want makeup-wise, all of the time? Where are the boundaries? Are there or should there be any boundaries?

In this month's Glamour magazine (pg. 159, Keira Knightley front cover) the fabulous Sali Hughes - Guardian beauty journalist extraordinaire - tackles one of my all-time favourite subjects; makeup and feminism.

So where does makeup currently sit on the feminist scale?

Sali argues she's sick of people telling her she can't possibly be a feminist AND love makeup. The assumption that women who love makeup (wearing it, shopping for it, talking about it, writing about it) are somehow lacking in brain cells is a particularly ancient and not to mention unsubstantiated stereotype. I can personally attest to knowing a handful of very successful women (lawyers, investment bankers, senior suite executives) who have gone completely gaga when I've shown them the latest in foundation technology or a vibrant matte red lip shade. Does this mean they're stupid because they relish the joy and playfulness that makeup brings out in them? Does it b*llocks.

A time and a place
It's a fabulous piece of writing and if you get a chance to read it, do, however, there was one line towards the end of Sali's article which jarred with me slightly. She concludes:

'The freedom to look however you choose is feminism'.

I'd agree, yes, but only up to a point.

Take a woman's place of work for example. Should she feel free to express her love of all things punk or goth in the office? That's clearly at one extreme end of the spectrum, but how about slightly less artistic preferences? Are absurdly long eyelash extensions an acceptable form of grooming? What about bright red lips?

Conversely, should a women be free to wear no makeup at all?

For me it's not a question of freedom - we all have the freedom to do what we want - but rather it's about being strategic. 

I believe a woman's makeup has to be fitting for the role. Women are missing a trick if they think being entirely themselves in the makeup and wardrobe department is the secret to success. Of course, a healthy dose of self-esteem and confidence is essential to winning the respect of both your peers and clients but there is a fine line and often I think the nuance of striking the right balance is missed.

When it comes to your makeup for work there are several factors to consider:

• Does my look best represent the company I work for? (i.e. does it reflect its culture, values and areas of expertise)
• Does my makeup represent me in the best light?
• Does my makeup reflect my ambition?
• How have I adapted my makeup to account for my age? (is it ageing to be wearing certain shades? answer: YES!)

Where to start?
A good starting point is to look at the industry or sector you work in. A woman working in sales for example will need a more polished (and arguably brighter) look than someone who works in medicine or HR.

And what about the size of your company? A larger firm is likely to have a standardised approach to appearance, setting the benchmark high.  More creative industries such as PR and advertising will expect a more individual and characterful dress code, one which allows for personality but without compromising on polish.

Ultimately makeup is there to be used and should not be underestimated in its ability to imbue health and vitality as well as inwardly bolstering our confidence.

Why do we wear makeup? Part II

© Chris Bretz; hair & makeup: Natalie James Makeup

In Part I of this post on why we wear makeup, I posed the question: Is wearing makeup a primal activity? Secondary to this question is this: if (for argument's sake) makeup were a primal activity....just WHO are we wearing it for?

Throughout history, humans have marked their faces, bodies and nails as a form of communication, self expression and to attract others (initially sexually and latterly to signify social status). We know that modern day makeup has the ability to enhance and in some cases completely alter a person’s features (think eyelash extensions, coloured contact lenses). When we go on a date we might choose to wear a brightly coloured lipstick as we know this draws the attention of the viewer (male or female). Or we might wear slightly more eye makeup to draw more attention to our eyes (therefore encouraging eye contact). But at work? What’s appropriate? And if we do wear a little makeup (or a lot), just who are we wearing it for?

I recently did a quick survey amongst a handful of businesswomen and the majority (verbal) response was that they wear makeup for themselves (to boost confidence and poise) but – AND HERE'S THE INTERESTING THING – they wear it *mostly* for other women.

Is wearing makeup to work therefore perhaps a way of gaining kudos from other female employees? A way to fit in?

When a woman wears an item of makeup – or say a pair of shoes – that are fashion forward and subsequently openly celebrated by her female colleagues, what’s the effect on the men in the office?

Q: For as many points as we’re scoring with our female peers, could we be giving out completely the wrong signal to our male counterparts?

A businesswoman told me anecdotally that she’d bought a fuchsia pink lipstick one Saturday (bang on trend for S/S13, top marks!) and had decided to wear it to the office on Monday morning (hmm). Whilst her female colleagues cooed at the 'brightness and oh, the texture!' of the lipstick (not to mention how it off-set her navy silk top beautifully), the male members of her team found it distracting. Kinda gets you thinking doesn't it...

Have you ever worn a shade of lipstick or eye shadow to the office and regretted it? 

If you missed out on Part I you can read it here.

To continue the debate on whether makeup is a primal activity or more of a social acceptance tool, post your thoughts in the comment box below.

For more information about The Makeup Debate talks and workshops, visit our website.

Why do we wear makeup? Part I

© Alice Luker; makeup by Natalie James Makeup

Every couple of months, my friend and I – storyteller, blogger and all round ball of energy Chris Packe – meet for coffee. We have the most wonderful conversations, many of which seem to circle around one particular topic: human behaviour. 

This morning, as Chris eked out a large pot of Darjeeling and I necked my second cappuccino of the day (argh, must cut down)...the word 'primal' came up. A lot. 

This is unsurprising because Chris is fascinated by the role primal instincts play in our daily lives. He is also intrigued by our ability (and to a greater extent society's) to suppress them. From my side, well, I guess it got me thinking about the role makeup plays, specifically in the workplace, and whether we would define the act of wearing makeup as a primal activity? And if (for argument's sake) wearing makeup were a primal activity... just WHO are we wearing it for?

© James Champion; makeup: Natalie James Makeup

There's no doubt, it's a big question to ask and one that engenders all sorts of awkward shifting in chairs. I'm sure many of us would balk at the idea of there being any underlying, subconscious sexual impulses at play when choosing how to dress or what makeup to wear to the office (unless we're single of course but, even then, there are limits aren't there girls!).

For me, to question why we wear makeup is a question worth asking, particularly given the social shift taking place currently in the workplace (What’s that then?)

© Seun Shote; makeup & nails: Natalie James Makeup

Ladies (and gents) something is happening in business circles that I refer to in my talks as ‘The Rise of the Feminine’. It's a hot topic right now for women in business and commentators on the subject refer to it in different ways. Essentially The Rise of the Feminine represents a cultural shift in the way women are perceived in business...that feminine qualities, in particular feminine leadership qualities such as the ability to listen, to nurture the group and to multitask, are being heralded and actively sought out by companies because of the positive impact fostering such qualities can have on business growth.

But what do feminine leadership qualities have to do with wearing makeup?

Well for one, this shift alters our view of what a successful businesswoman should look like. Gone are the days where a woman feels the need to dress and act like a man to get ahead. Women are dressing in a much more feminine way (Note, I don't mean sexual here, but feminine in the sense of softer fabrics, more feminine cuts and patterns). I once interviewed a female banker who said 'the more feminine I dressed the better I performed'. Why? I'd chance a guess it has a lot to do with authenticity.

Of course there is always a balance to be struck depending on your industry, your role and your age (controversial I know) but The Rise of the Feminine is visibly changing the status quo and for that reason alone it's worth thinking about. Right?

Part II of this conversation continues here.

To continue the debate on whether makeup is a primal activity or more of a social acceptance tool, post your thoughts in the comment box below.

For more information about The Makeup Debate talks and workshops, visit our website.