Makeup: Is it really OK to wear what we want?

Now here's an interesting question. Do we really think it's OK to wear whatever we want makeup-wise, all of the time? Where are the boundaries? Are there or should there be any boundaries?

In this month's Glamour magazine (pg. 159, Keira Knightley front cover) the fabulous Sali Hughes - Guardian beauty journalist extraordinaire - tackles one of my all-time favourite subjects; makeup and feminism.

So where does makeup currently sit on the feminist scale?

Sali argues she's sick of people telling her she can't possibly be a feminist AND love makeup. The assumption that women who love makeup (wearing it, shopping for it, talking about it, writing about it) are somehow lacking in brain cells is a particularly ancient and not to mention unsubstantiated stereotype. I can personally attest to knowing a handful of very successful women (lawyers, investment bankers, senior suite executives) who have gone completely gaga when I've shown them the latest in foundation technology or a vibrant matte red lip shade. Does this mean they're stupid because they relish the joy and playfulness that makeup brings out in them? Does it b*llocks.

A time and a place
It's a fabulous piece of writing and if you get a chance to read it, do, however, there was one line towards the end of Sali's article which jarred with me slightly. She concludes:

'The freedom to look however you choose is feminism'.

I'd agree, yes, but only up to a point.

Take a woman's place of work for example. Should she feel free to express her love of all things punk or goth in the office? That's clearly at one extreme end of the spectrum, but how about slightly less artistic preferences? Are absurdly long eyelash extensions an acceptable form of grooming? What about bright red lips?

Conversely, should a women be free to wear no makeup at all?

For me it's not a question of freedom - we all have the freedom to do what we want - but rather it's about being strategic. 

I believe a woman's makeup has to be fitting for the role. Women are missing a trick if they think being entirely themselves in the makeup and wardrobe department is the secret to success. Of course, a healthy dose of self-esteem and confidence is essential to winning the respect of both your peers and clients but there is a fine line and often I think the nuance of striking the right balance is missed.

When it comes to your makeup for work there are several factors to consider:

• Does my look best represent the company I work for? (i.e. does it reflect its culture, values and areas of expertise)
• Does my makeup represent me in the best light?
• Does my makeup reflect my ambition?
• How have I adapted my makeup to account for my age? (is it ageing to be wearing certain shades? answer: YES!)

Where to start?
A good starting point is to look at the industry or sector you work in. A woman working in sales for example will need a more polished (and arguably brighter) look than someone who works in medicine or HR.

And what about the size of your company? A larger firm is likely to have a standardised approach to appearance, setting the benchmark high.  More creative industries such as PR and advertising will expect a more individual and characterful dress code, one which allows for personality but without compromising on polish.

Ultimately makeup is there to be used and should not be underestimated in its ability to imbue health and vitality as well as inwardly bolstering our confidence.

Does makeup = confidence?

Are the red specs too much?

The Makeup = Confidence debate has long fascinated me.

Partly because, as a working makeup artist I get to witness first hand the ways in which makeup can spark confidence in women (oh it can, yes it can). But partly too because, as a woman, I've personally experienced the spring in my step and the smile on my face that comes from walking into a room knowing my makeup looks great.

(I should add too that I've experienced the flip side... where my skin is not looking good. At all. And that knowing and feeling that has affected everything, from my posture to my ability to make conversation).

But back to the debate...

For as positive a tool as makeup can be....should it ever be used as a substitute for confidence?

Sali Hughes interviewing Charlotte Tilbury (in Charlotte's bathroom!)

Two things have prompted this post. One was discovering last week that one of my makeup heroes, the permanently feline-flicked celebrity makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury, reapplies her makeup before bed.

I'll say that again.

She removes her makeup (using her Clarisonic and her own Miracle Glow Cleanser) and then reapplies primer, concealer, liner and mascara (*GASP*).

Whilst Charlotte is a wonderful ambassador for the confidence-boosting aspects of makeup (I simply adore how easy she has made it for everyday women to copy their favourite Hollywood heroine) what BLEW MY MIND is that she insists that no-one should ever have to see her without makeup. Not even her husband.

I have to say this saddens me. I would hate to feel I couldn't go barefaced in front of my best friend or a man I liked. Perhaps Charlotte would go bare-faced but actively chooses not to? Regardless of the reason I still find it unsettling and at odds with the way I feel about makeup and when it should be used.

Btw, I highly recommend watching the whole video which is the second of a Two Part interview by the wonderful Sali Hughes, Beauty Guru for The Guardian. But if you simply want to skip to Charlotte's bedtime makeup routine start watching from 4:50. (If your reaction is anything like mine it will leave your jaw on the floor).

The second thing to prompt this post was a bbc.co.uk news article which posed the rather controversial (but highly topical) question "Could a makeover save your career?" (Link to full article).

Personal brand is something we're probably all pretty familiar with. The notion that it's not just what you say or how brilliant you are at your job. Whether we like it or not people make sub-conscious judgements based on appearance.

Research recently conducted by the University of Hertfordshire confirmed this:

'What a person wears has a big impact on others' impressions of them and on their subsequent career opportunities.' 

It even goes on to say:

'Women whose work-wear is "slightly provocative" are judged to be less competent.'  

                                      - Excerpt from an interview with Karen Pine, a psychology professor at the  
                                        University of Hertfordshire.

Trust me, I'm a salesperson
Whenever I struggle with this debate I seem to always revert to the sales analogy.

Imagine you're being sold something by the best salesman or saleswoman in the world. What would you want, or expect them to look like? Would their scruffy shoes distract you from their eloquent sales tactics? Or how about their visible (and therefore highly distracting) cleavage? Would it make you think twice about your purchase?

The fact of the matter is people want to see health and confidence reflected back at them, regardless of the context. You might forgive a friend for having slightly lack-lustre or frizzy hair but how would that person fare in a business context? Can you imagine them going for a promotion?

Who can forget the relaxed confidence of Katie Holmes, photographed for
Bobbi Brown's 'Confidence is everything. But a little makeup can't hurt.' campaign.

As a makeup artist and someone who extols the benefits of strategic use of makeup in the workplace I'm conscious my appearance needs to consistently reflect the values I am promoting. This has its challenges! Especially after a British Military Fitness class (lol) or on a 'lazy' day. But I know how I feel on days when I haven't got my business face* on and for as much as I'm confident about my subject matter, I can't help but feel like I'm under-selling myself in the knowledge my appearance is under-par.

Whilst we can acknowledge that makeup should never be a mask I think it's also important to acknowledge that real confidence simply has to come from within. By all means use makeup and 'mazing haircuts and gorgeously fitting shoes and clothes to help boost your inner confidence...but don't forget too to reflect that mirror back at yourself and do the work on the inside. This is no quick fix. As someone who has had periods of sustained low self-esteem I can tell you I'm several years in and still delving, but finding I am building a solid foundation slowly but surely :)

And imagine just for a second how much more powerful makeup and heels and haircuts would be, knowing all the while, that should they be taken away, our inner confidence will still be there....standing tall and shiny.

* To clarify, my business face is not wearing a tonne of makeup. It's about using very thin layers of product to imbue health, vitality and professionalism. I want the people I talk to to think 'She looks great' not 'Wow she's wearing a lot of makeup for a Tuesday'.


Images:
Guess Accessories (Kate Upton)
Charlotte Tilbury
Bobbi Brown (Katie Holmes)