What every beauty brand can learn from Charlotte Tilbury

I found myself watching a video last night of Charlotte Tilbury doing makeup on the lovely Nic Chapman (Pixiwoo). I've watched a number of videos of Charlotte at work and also being interviewed (you simply must check out this eye opening interview with Sali Hughes from Sali's 'In The Bathroom' series where Charlotte reveals she REAPPLIES her makeup, INCLUDING MASCARA, before bed?!).

Where was I? Yes, Charlotte (to me) always seems to come across the same; energetic, enthusiastic and humbled by her success. As a makeup artist and also a punter I find her enthusiasm for cosmetics completely infectious. It's no wonder the brand that carries her name is enjoying such tremendous success.

Naturally the cynic in me says 'Well of course she's enthusiastic. She's probably a multi millionaire, what with her own best selling makeup brand!" But I genuinely believe there's something to be gleaned from the consistency with which she presents herself to the world.

In today's competitive world brands that do well often embody people. They have personalities and attributes. A potential disaster move for a brand, particularly as they grow in size, is when they hire the wrong kinds of people. I adore shopping in Space NK but find it infuriating when I enter a Space NK store to find what I love about that brand has been completely overshadowed by the egos of the people who run that particular shop. I'd be amazed if Charlotte Tilbury headquarters didn't actively recruit people bearing similar traits to Charlotte.

For some reason, whilst thinking about all of this I also got to thinking about pedicures (random). On the rare occasion that I treat myself to a pedicure (about once a year, if that) I'll generally go somewhere I've been before on the basis I know the 'brand' and trust them to do a good job (again, nothing worse than when the experience doesn't live up to the expectation. Sigh.

As someone trying to grow my own brand I often think about the importance of being genuine and how this attracts the right kind of people. After all, it's impossible to be everyone's cup of tea, but if you're true to yourself, the right kind of person is likely to respond. In the beginning I tried to be someone I wasn't and guess what, growth was slow. Now that I'm learning to embrace who I am and what makes me different, the change is visibly there.

Before we wrap up talking about Charlotte and what a character she is, here are three of my favourite Charlotte Tilbury products:

Lip Cheat in 'Pillow Talk' (£16)
I wear this pretty much every other day and will happily apply it under any lipstick. Its velvety texture is unlike anything I've experienced before and as lip pencils go (and boy are there some terrible ones out there) it's excellent at preventing lip colour from bleeding. Charlotte's pencils are designed to 'cheat' your natural lip line (assuming one would like slightly fuller lips) so as such it comes in a range of different tones to suit all (or at least most?) ethnicities.

The Dolce Vita Luxury Palette (£38)
When I first saw the earthy red shade in this quad I thought "there's no way I'm putting that on my eyes", but it just works. I've got green eyes and with red being the opposite of green on the colour spectrum anything with reddy or purply undertones is going to make my eyes sing. This is my go-to palette whenever I want to create an interesting smokey eye and I love love love the glittery 'pop' shade which goes over the moveable part of the eye. Rumour has it Charlotte helped Tom Ford design his cosmetics line and if you look at his shadow quads and hers there are many similarities.

OK so I lied, I have two. But MAN do I want to test this baby out! Launching soon. Love the fact the shades are numbered and that the numbers will fade once you get the hang of it and the product wears down. The woman's a genius. Either that or the people behind her are. 

Mini break makeup essentials: 15 items (and all got worn more than once)

Knowing what clothes to pack for a mini break can be challenging enough (is three pairs of shoes too much?) but keeping your bath bag lighter than a bowling ball can equally be a challenge

Monday morning last week, whilst most people were on their way to work, my boyfriend and I found ourselves grinning shamelessly aboard the 8:04am Eurostar to Brussels. After a pretty hectic Christmas we'd both decided we quite deserved a mini break, plus friends of ours had been raving about a hotel in Bruges called The Pand. Let's just say they had us at 'Ralph Lauren sheets'.

I knew I wanted to take a compact bath bag, including some pampery skincare treats as well as some versatile and luxury eye makeup products that I don't often get to wear. I also knew I'd need makeup that would transition from day to night without too much hassle. 

Here's what I ended up taking...

Every product you see here got used more than once during my 3 night stay

1. Chantecaille eye shadows are a real investment piece and are well known for their luxurious texture and crease free wear. I first used their Le Chrome Luxe Duo in 'Tibet' at a Christmas law firm event back in November. Everyone who requested a makeover that evening opted for the eye shadow duo and walked away delighted. 

On our first night away I had about ten minutes to get ready so decided to wear a sheer veil of the silvery shade finished off with a quiOk flash of mascara. On our last night we treated ourselves to a meal at the Michelin starred restaurant The Golden Herring. As it was a glamorous outing I opted for a dramatic smokey eye, cat flick and lashings of mascara. One sultry, smokey eye later all I needed was a glossy nude lip to finish.

2. Anyone who knows me will tell you I love nothing more than to decant things. In fact, when these little 5ml cosmetic pots arrived in the post I genuinely remember squealing with delight (more on these beauties if and when you make it to No. 11!). 

I didn't want to take my full size perfume* with me (even the 30ml can be quite heavy) so I decanted a few millilitres into this handy and inexpensive Muji atomiser. It can carry almost 5ml of perfume which is way more than I needed for our three nights away. 

When I'm not on holiday the atomiser is light enough to keep in my makeup bag for refreshing evening spritzes. 

*Escentric Molecules 02 which you can read all about here :)

3. If you've never heard of Dermalogica Microfoliant, shame on you, where have you been?! A glorious, everyday cleansing product, it dispenses as a super fine powder which you then mix with a little water. Gentle enough for daily use and leaves your skin feeling lightly exfoliated. Love.

4. I knew about Clarins Beauty Flash Balm for years before I tried it, mistakenly thinking it was an old school primer and that 'things must have moved on'. But, boy is it amazing. I remember asking my housemate Sal one evening what foundation she was wearing (her skin looked incredible) and we worked out it wasn't the foundation at all but rather Clarins' BFB. 

Apply it liberally over cheekbones and the outside areas of the face to boost dewiness. It can also be applied all over but I like to keep my t-zone shine free. I also love the slightly old school smell and definitely feel pampered when I wear it.

5. I was skeptical about Chanel Healthy Les Beiges having tried it in store and feeling less than enthused when it first launched. Then, one long weekend away, a close girlfriend of mine was raving about it so I thought I'd give it another whirl. II've been hooked ever since. It's the one thing that makes me look like I've had ten hours sleep when I've had four (in fairness, any bronzer that's the right shade will do this but the Chanel feels particularly luxurious). I love the fact it's buildable for evening makeup, although having said that, if I were minted and could justify buying two, I'd quite happily use the '30' for day and the '40' in the evening (Oh, the decadence). The packaging is also unmistakably chic in a way only Chanel can pull off.

6. I think the marketing for Charlotte Tilbury's makeup line is simply extraordinary but I'm staunch about what I like and don't like. For example, I'm not a huge fan of the Wonderglow Primer (although I have been known to use it sparingly on cheekbones on myself sometimes and on clients but don't think it does much all over) however, Ms. Tilbury's lip pencils are something else. I loved the idea of a lip liner to boost one's own natural lip line - a lip 'cheat' in her words - and she seems to get natural tones bang on across several skin tones. After reading several reviews I bought 'Pillow Talk'* and have been using it pretty much every day ever since. It's great under lipstick or gloss and has a fantastic waxy texture that I've not seen in other brands. *I've linked to Net-a-porter here as Pillow Talk doesn't seem to be listed anymore on CT's official site. Hope it hasn't been discontinued?! :( 

7. As well as producing fantastic eye shadows Chantecaille also produce quite brilliant lip products. I love their Lip Chic range - a glossy textured lipstick in a compact gun-metal grey case - but equally as fabulous is their range of pigmented lip glosses called Luminous Gloss.  

I lusted after the 'Pink Melon' shade for a while before I invested. Worn as a sheer veil on its own or over my Charlotte Tilbury lip cheat is perfect for day. At night I use it as more of a lip lacquer, layering it up to give my lips a sultry pout. 

8. Australia's cult product, Lucas Papaw has been around for years and is great 'all rounder'. The red tube is easy to spot in your handbag or makeup bag and a little goes a long way. Dab onto lips and onto cheekbones. Since writing this post I've read Lucas Papaw has come under fire for containing as much as 96% petroleum. The company argues its pharmaceutical grade, but even still, might have to think about switching to Burt's Bees which (appears) far more natural. 

9. This is, by far, the best tinted brow mascara I've come across for blonde/light brown hair (it also comes in a darker brown shade for medium to dark brown hair). Annoyingly it's only available online in the UK and even though there are plenty of other brow mascaras to choose from (e.g. Benefit Gimme Brow or Maybelline's Brow Drama, I keep going back to the ModelCo one. I blogged about why it's so great here.

10. I was lucky enough to get sent Estée Lauder's Double Wear, Stay in Place Brow Lift Duo or Derek for short (only joking) which has become my 'go to' brow pencil. This dual toned / dual ended brow product has small nibs making it easy to gently shape my brows with one end and highlight with the other. 

11. I mentioned way back at No. 2 that I am happiest when decanting things (including wine!). Whenever I go away I always take a couple of little pots with me (like these), one containing my favourite tinted moisturiser and one containing my favourite liquid foundation (the latter for when I might want a bit of extra coverage). Even thought the pots hold 5ml it is actually a lot of product, definitely enough for between 5-10 applications, depending how much you like to apply. 

For my mini break I decided to take just one pot with me. I filled half with Estée Lauder's Sheer Tint Release - my go to summer base because of its incredible texture, SPF and dewy glow - and the other half with my favourite tinted moisturiser.  I didn't take a full coverage foundation with me because a) I wanted my skin to breathe a little and by) I knew I'd have this fantastic high street concealer to give me extra coverage where I needed it.

12. I'm a huge fan of these waterproof eye pencils from Chanel because they. Do. Not. Budge. The shade I wear, 'Grenat', a stunning warm, reddy purple, is sadly discontinued from what I can tell but there are lots of other shades suited to all skin tones. Tip: If you're pale like me and have green eyes, a purple eye pencil will really help to show them off. Just be careful there is no other visible redness in the skin (chin, around the nose, shadows around the eyes etc) as the purple shade will only make you look ill.

13. I've been using this eye pencil by Chantecaille for ooh, let's see now, three years?  It is the perfect shade of matte espresso and easy to smudge if I want to do a smokey eye. It's also one of the only eye pencils I can wear on my waterline without it coating my contact lenses! The only thing I would change about it would be to make it even more waterproof (it does wear off more quickly than other pencils but I'm too in love with the shade to change. For the time being anyway).

14. I decided to invest in this mascara on the basis the lovely Pixiwoo sisters mention it in nearly every video tutorial. MAC's Extended Play Lash is a tubing mascara which means it comes off (in little tubes!) with warm water (mixed with your regular cleanser or oil, of course).  Sam (one half of the Pixiwoos) likes to wear it on her lower lashes but I've been wearing it on my upper and lower lashes. It's not waterproof but doesn't smudge and the thin wand is great at getting right to the base of the lashes. If you're a fan of big fat mascara brushes this might frustrate you and I'd say you definitely need to be curling your lashes before you apply it, but otherwise it's dinky, relatively inexpensive (£15) and delivers long, black black, perfectly separated lashes.

15. Lastly but definitely not least(ly), it has been one of my holy grail of searches to find a decent liquid eyeliner, one that stays put, has the right size tip and is matte. It was actually a high street brand that finally came up trumps. Maybelline's Master Ink Matte liquid liner is a dream to put on and I can achieve a super fine or thick feline flick in mere minutes. My one tip: have a tissue to hand and dab the nib once before you apply to remove any excess liquid.

One of my most hard wearing and happy of bath bags, bought on holiday in Australia.
Reserved for holidays and weddings.

Other items I snuck away in my stripy bath bag included:

- Pretty Quik nail varnish remover pot (one of my best discoveries of 2014)

- Bourjois Poudre de Riz de Java - an ever-so-slightly-sparkling finishing powder that has that old school cosmetics smell

- some Bioderma Sensibio H20 miscellar water, decanted (I did warn you) into a handy spray for speedy eye makeup removal

Did I mention the gin?! :)

What are your travel skin or makeup essentials? Any tips for transporting the goodies?

Until next time, happy Thursday xx

Does makeup = confidence?

Are the red specs too much?

The Makeup = Confidence debate has long fascinated me.

Partly because, as a working makeup artist I get to witness first hand the ways in which makeup can spark confidence in women (oh it can, yes it can). But partly too because, as a woman, I've personally experienced the spring in my step and the smile on my face that comes from walking into a room knowing my makeup looks great.

(I should add too that I've experienced the flip side... where my skin is not looking good. At all. And that knowing and feeling that has affected everything, from my posture to my ability to make conversation).

But back to the debate...

For as positive a tool as makeup can be....should it ever be used as a substitute for confidence?

Sali Hughes interviewing Charlotte Tilbury (in Charlotte's bathroom!)

Two things have prompted this post. One was discovering last week that one of my makeup heroes, the permanently feline-flicked celebrity makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury, reapplies her makeup before bed.

I'll say that again.

She removes her makeup (using her Clarisonic and her own Miracle Glow Cleanser) and then reapplies primer, concealer, liner and mascara (*GASP*).

Whilst Charlotte is a wonderful ambassador for the confidence-boosting aspects of makeup (I simply adore how easy she has made it for everyday women to copy their favourite Hollywood heroine) what BLEW MY MIND is that she insists that no-one should ever have to see her without makeup. Not even her husband.

I have to say this saddens me. I would hate to feel I couldn't go barefaced in front of my best friend or a man I liked. Perhaps Charlotte would go bare-faced but actively chooses not to? Regardless of the reason I still find it unsettling and at odds with the way I feel about makeup and when it should be used.

Btw, I highly recommend watching the whole video which is the second of a Two Part interview by the wonderful Sali Hughes, Beauty Guru for The Guardian. But if you simply want to skip to Charlotte's bedtime makeup routine start watching from 4:50. (If your reaction is anything like mine it will leave your jaw on the floor).

The second thing to prompt this post was a bbc.co.uk news article which posed the rather controversial (but highly topical) question "Could a makeover save your career?" (Link to full article).

Personal brand is something we're probably all pretty familiar with. The notion that it's not just what you say or how brilliant you are at your job. Whether we like it or not people make sub-conscious judgements based on appearance.

Research recently conducted by the University of Hertfordshire confirmed this:

'What a person wears has a big impact on others' impressions of them and on their subsequent career opportunities.' 

It even goes on to say:

'Women whose work-wear is "slightly provocative" are judged to be less competent.'  

                                      - Excerpt from an interview with Karen Pine, a psychology professor at the  
                                        University of Hertfordshire.

Trust me, I'm a salesperson
Whenever I struggle with this debate I seem to always revert to the sales analogy.

Imagine you're being sold something by the best salesman or saleswoman in the world. What would you want, or expect them to look like? Would their scruffy shoes distract you from their eloquent sales tactics? Or how about their visible (and therefore highly distracting) cleavage? Would it make you think twice about your purchase?

The fact of the matter is people want to see health and confidence reflected back at them, regardless of the context. You might forgive a friend for having slightly lack-lustre or frizzy hair but how would that person fare in a business context? Can you imagine them going for a promotion?

Who can forget the relaxed confidence of Katie Holmes, photographed for
Bobbi Brown's 'Confidence is everything. But a little makeup can't hurt.' campaign.

As a makeup artist and someone who extols the benefits of strategic use of makeup in the workplace I'm conscious my appearance needs to consistently reflect the values I am promoting. This has its challenges! Especially after a British Military Fitness class (lol) or on a 'lazy' day. But I know how I feel on days when I haven't got my business face* on and for as much as I'm confident about my subject matter, I can't help but feel like I'm under-selling myself in the knowledge my appearance is under-par.

Whilst we can acknowledge that makeup should never be a mask I think it's also important to acknowledge that real confidence simply has to come from within. By all means use makeup and 'mazing haircuts and gorgeously fitting shoes and clothes to help boost your inner confidence...but don't forget too to reflect that mirror back at yourself and do the work on the inside. This is no quick fix. As someone who has had periods of sustained low self-esteem I can tell you I'm several years in and still delving, but finding I am building a solid foundation slowly but surely :)

And imagine just for a second how much more powerful makeup and heels and haircuts would be, knowing all the while, that should they be taken away, our inner confidence will still be there....standing tall and shiny.

* To clarify, my business face is not wearing a tonne of makeup. It's about using very thin layers of product to imbue health, vitality and professionalism. I want the people I talk to to think 'She looks great' not 'Wow she's wearing a lot of makeup for a Tuesday'.


Images:
Guess Accessories (Kate Upton)
Charlotte Tilbury
Bobbi Brown (Katie Holmes)

She Had Me At 'Dolce Vita'

You may have come across one of her tutorials for net-a-porter... or perhaps you've spied the beautiful burgundy and rose-gold packaging in Selfridges.

Either way, here's why you need to know CHARLOTTE TILBURY.

SOME KEY FACTS:
- she assisted makeup matriarch Mary Greenwell (we're not worthy *bows head*)
- she is one of Kate Moss's close friends/'go-to' artists(!)
- Selfridges gave Charlotte her own 'pop-up' last year which was filled with her favourite products from other brands (genius)
- She has red hair (always a winner in my book)

I am not Charlotte

The Charlotte Tilbury Makeup Range:
Back in Feb I was invited to attend a pro artist event at Charlotte Tilbury's show studio in Queen's Park. It was a chance to get to know the products outside of the shopping centre environment (always appreciated) and I have to say, I was mesmerised!

Why Charlotte's range is a WINNER:
- Charlotte Tilbury is the makeup artist behind the Tom Ford beauty campaigns of recent years. Not only are her makeup designs luxuriously femme fatale (see above), but if you lust after Tom Ford makeup but weep at his prices, Charlotte's helps you edge just that little bit closer to decadence.
- She makes it easy for everyday women to be inspired and 'copy' a look based on our mood
- I have a 'thing' about rose gold. So does my sister Kelli. Whilst it's not about the packaging, it is SO about the packaging... (and the makeup ain't bad either).

I am Charlotte

Here's a closer look at what I chose to invest in from Charlotte Tilbury's glorious range...

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:
- Powder & Sculpt Brush (£35)
- 'Dolce Vita' Luxury Eye Palette (£38)
- Brow Lift in 'Grace Kelly' (£22.50)
- Colour Morphing Eye Shadow pencil in 'Champagne Diamonds' (£18)

EASY TO FOLLOW
Charlotte's eye shadow quads make application easy by explaining what each shade does:

E.g. working clockwise:
- Top left is PRIME (all over)
- Top right is ENHANCE (i.e. socket)
- Bottom right is SMOKE (i.e. lash line/more socket)
- Bottom left is POP (overlay)

CHECK YOU
I've worn the 'Dolce Vita' palette several times now (it's my new go-to smokey eye!) and on more than one occasion someone has told me how beautiful my eye makeup looks. "Wha' thaaaaank you!"

WANT TO TRY?
Here are some fantastic investments, whatever your budget...

Dip your toe:
Full Fat Lashes Mascara (£22.00) - There's a reason she's only got one.

Birthday Blowout:
Wonderglow Primer (£38.50) - I used this on a client the other day and was visibly taken aback by how literally radiant her skin looked. Wear on its own and with a touch of concealer at the weekends to feel glowy and carefree.

Investment Piece:
Eye Shadow Palette (any, £38) - Even though this is a similar price to the Wonderglow I would describe this as an investment piece because ANY eye shadow palette you buy you simply MUST get a lot of wear out of (otherwise, what's the point?).

Be sure the shades you choose are RIGHT for you and that you'll have the balls to wear them...a feeling that's all too present amidst the euphoria of purchasing in the beauty hall but which quickly fades the moment you're back at home. My personal faves: Dolce Vita and The Uptown Girl for wearability.

Do you have a favourite Charlotte Tilbury product? I'd love to know...

All images Charlotte Tilbury.com plus some iPad snaps