Sunday 22 July 2012

LIQUID FOUNDATION. HELP!


The other day an old uni friend emailed me to say...

"Nat! Need urgent foundation advice as mine has run out and just realised Prescriptives stopped selling in the UK in 2010??!!!! My foundation is obviously over 2 years old! Eeek."


RIP. Custom blend was a genius concept.
Her question got me thinking - not about which ones I would recommend (I knew instantly) - but about what a minefield foundation shopping can be. And today, more so than ever.


According to The Beauty Economy report recently published by Raconteur, there has been an "80% increase in UK foundation sales"*. 


I remember a time when I didn't bother with liquid foundation....now it's my go-to makeup staple. What's changed? 




I would hazard a guess that factors contributing to this meteoric rise in sales of liquid foundation might include:
  •  The introduction of BB creams to the UK market 
    • BB creams have got us reappraising liquid foundation and thinking more about what we put on our faces. It's interesting to see the more established makeup brands react to this with new and improved formulas as well as their own versions of BB creams.
  • Shades for darker skin tones
    • This has been a long time coming but premium brands such as Lancôme, Chanel and YSL have finally caught up with forerunners MAC, Iman and Sleek. 
  • Airbrushing
    • Ironically, a heightened awareness of Photoshopped/airbrushed images over recent years has arguably contributed to a desire to learn how to achieve flawless skin 'naturally'. Whilst we all need a little help, thankfully the technology and innovation behind many of today's foundations, means a flawless face is possible.

Suits you Madam. image courtesy of http://thejournalista.wordpress.com


WHY CHOOSING A FOUNDATION IS A BIT LIKE CHOOSING A CAR (bear with me)...


1. First question to ask is 'what is my skin type?' (what petrol do I run on?)
OILY / DRY / COMBINATION / SENSITIVE
  • Unsurprisingly, oily skins perform best under a matte finish (e.g. Clinique Stay Matte foundation, NARS Sheer Matte)
  • Conversely, dry skins (including more mature skins) are better suited to more hydrating (oilier) foundations (e.g. NARS Sheer Glow, Bobbi Brown Extra-Repair Foundation)
  • Combination skin can get away with both types - depends on which texture you prefer the look/feel of? Just watch that T-zone :)
  • Sensitive skins will need to do patch tests / check for ingredients and go with foundations they know to be dermatologically sound
Ah yes, but what about COVERAGE?
Once you know your skin type you can quickly determine whether you would prefer a foundation with sheer / medium / full coverage. Unless you're a dancer in the Cirque du Soleil, I'd say most people are suited to a light to medium coverage. If you have severe acne and feel more comfortable with a fuller coverage it's often best to use a medium coverage foundation first, and then go in and conceal any redness/blemishes using a concealer such as Laura Mercier's cult product Secret Camouflage or Bobbi Brown's Creamy Concealer Kit.






2. Next question is 'how do I want my foundation to perform?' (what extra features would I like my car to have?) E.g. Anti-ageing? Firming? Long lasting? Built-in SPF? Built in moisturiser/primer? 


There are soooo many options to choose from. The thing to remember is that once you know your basic foundation need (matte/hydrating etc) you can build from there. 


Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk (left) and Fluid Sheer (right)


3. And finally, 'how do I want my skin to look?' (am I a matte black Ferrari girl or a metallic blue Lamborghini girl?)


Illuminating foundations such as Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer Illuminator can be mixed with your regular foundation to give you more of a dewy glow (see also YSL's *NEW* Touche Éclat Foundation). 


If you like a matte finish but want a touch of the 'dewy skin', work with illuminator creams such as MAC Strobe or NARS Orgasm Illuminator. Using your fingertips, press a little of your chosen illuminator cream onto cheekbones and blend well. Illuminators go on top of your foundation and the golden rule is Less is Always More. 


Which foundation have you bought and loved?


I have emailed NPD - the body responsible for this statistic - to clarify which period the 80% increase refers to

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