This little trick has *totally* transformed my look

Mariela woke up like this. OK, maybe she woke up with the nose (I so want that nose) and
brows (don't get me started)....but the rest is makeup. Phew :)

I thought I knew everything there was to know about highlighting (or 'strobing' as it's been recently rebranded *yawn*) but that was until I got chatting to Heidi at the Hourglass counter in Liberty last week. Heidi and I had been emailing recently and I'd promised to come in at some point to check out the new ambient powders.

If you want to discover the 'trick' quickly then scroll now to the end. If not, allow me to introduce you to Hourglass.

If you've never heard of Hourglass I'd describe them as the 'red carpet ready' makeup brand (think flawless dewy 'Hollywood' skin, sculpted cheekbones and lacquered lips). Founded in 2004 by cosmetics innovator Carissa Janes Hourglass was borne out of a desire to create a modern, luxury and high performing cosmetics brand. The brand's packaging is sleek and rose gold coloured (our obsession with rose gold clearly showing no sign of waning!) and the makeup within it boasts innovative formulations designed to challenge the makeup status quo. In a nutshell it's darn good stuff.

A superior trio
Two Christmases ago I was lucky enough to be gifted the spenny but utterly gorgeous Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette (see above. This was after much begging and puppy dog eyes I might add....spending over £50.00 on any makeup item for myself requires extensive consideration, hence the Christmas 'Wish List'!)

Two years on and I've basically worn down all three of the powders, but my favourite by far was the middle one - the highlighting powder. You can imagine my glee when Holly emailed to say that Hourglass were launching a range of individual highlighting powders. And boy are they good...

Mood lighting
The Ambient Lighting powders come in four shades which the brand says are universally flattering, but I'd recommend you try them on your skin before you buy (especially seeing as they're £34 each). The shade I was most drawn to personally was 'Iridescent' (above).

And now for The Trick *drumroll* 
I've always known highlighters come in both cream and powder formulations but for some reason I'd never thought to apply a powder highlighter wet(?!) *claxon*.

"Whaaaat???!! Heidi, this is a revelation!"

What happens
Applying a powder highlighter with a wet brush does two things to your skin:

• it gives it an ethereal high-shine glow, more so than simply using a cream or powder (dry)
• it can help buff the product even more effectively into your base (or nude skin)

BUT! It's all in the balance
Since trying this technique using a number of different powder highlighters I've discovered the method has several pros and cons:

• The brush needs to be damp not wet (i.e. running it under a free flowing tap is too much. A could of drops and then wring with your hand)
• A more densely packed, round brush works better than one which splays (the Hourglass brush that is recommended to accompany this product has a flat dome shape. A stippling brush like this one would also work well).
• The more finely milled the powder the better (if you're sixteen you can wear whichever powder takes your fancy! Thin, thick, doesn't matter...but the moment you start seeing those fine lines around the eyes it's best to opt for a finely milled powder. Case in point, I tried applying my trusty Kevin Aucoin 'Candle Light'* with a damp brush but the powder was too thick to be used wet and really accentuated my fine 'late thirties' lines. Boo).
• Be warned: if you have dry skin, adding water to it might make it feel even tighter! (To combat this moisturise well before you apply your base and consider applying a cream highlighter or a light touch of a natural, non-tinted lip balm underneath your wet powder highlighter).

* It's been several years (at least four) since I bought the Candle Light powder so the formula may have changed. Net-a-porter describe it as 'lightweight' which is something I definitely would not use to describe my one!

In natural light

Natural light again and for some bizarre reason slightly cross-eyed lol

With flash

Where to find Hourglass
If you're interested in experiencing Hourglass for yourself head to Liberty, Space NK or Harrods (Urban Retreat). For those of you who might be reading this overseas (*waves*) click here and search for your nearest stockist.

I'll leave you with a pretty awesome quote I found from Hourglass' CEO:

"When I’m developing a product, it needs to be one of two things: It either needs to be the total reinvention of a category, or it needs to be a product from the future. If it’s been done, I’m not interested." BOOM!  

   - Carissa Janes, founder and CEO, Hourglass Cosmetics

Do you have a go-to highlighting product? I'd love to know.


Images: Hourglass' website and my own

This post is not sponsored. I'm merely writing about it because I think it's good stuff :) 

Dewy summer skin

English Rosa

My friend Rosa Hoskins-Holt (who is also a styling genius by the way) is pretty gorgeous it has to be said. So when we decided to film a makeup and styling tutorial together I couldn't wait to suggest that she model for the video.

We spent a couple of hours one Saturday filming our first video - a 'how to' on creating the perfect summer skin.

Summer skin is all about keeping it light and airy...subtly dewy without looking hot and bothered, light contouring and just a hint of blush.

Here is a list of the products I used to create this dewy, ethereal look:

Dewy summer skin:

• MAC Oil-control lotion
• <preferably add in a separate high-factor SPF here>
• Estée Lauder Day Wear Sheer Tint Release (SPF 15) mixed with a little Chantecaille Just Skin in Alabaster (SPF 15)
• Bobbi Brown corrector and Creamy Concealer Kit (More concealing tips and tricks)
• Laura Mercier Bronzing Gel (just beneath the cheek bones, into the hairline and down the nose)
• Becca cream blush in Turkish Rose
• NARS Orgasm illuminator mixed with a little MAC Strobe Cream
• A light dusting of blot powder (we used Chantecaille HD Powder)
• Cowshed Lippy Cow Natural Lip Balm on the eyes
• Bourjois Rouge Edition, Shade 19, Corail en Vogue  (Rosa's own)

So what's the secret to this look?
- apply each product in thin layers
- use your fingers to pat and blend

Are you super pale?
Estée Lauder's Day Wear Sheer Tint Release is a gorgeous product (smells divine by the way). I love wearing it in the summer as it gives my skin a healthy, dewy glow. My one watch out would be if you're pale like me, to mix it with your regular tinted moisturiser/foundation as it can look brown (or worse, dirty) on its own when worn on pale skin. Be sure to blend a little down the neck line when you wear it.

What's your go-to summer product? I'd love to know...

LIQUID FOUNDATION. HELP!

The other day an old uni friend emailed me to say...

"Nat! Need urgent foundation advice as mine has run out and just realised Prescriptives stopped selling in the UK in 2010??!!!! My foundation is obviously over 2 years old! Eeek."

RIP. Custom blend was a genius concept.

Her question got me thinking - not about which ones I would recommend (I knew instantly) - but about what a minefield foundation shopping can be. And today, more so than ever.


According to The Beauty Economy report recently published by Raconteur, there has been an "80% increase in UK foundation sales"*. 


I remember a time when I didn't bother with liquid foundation....now it's my go-to makeup staple. What's changed? 

I would hazard a guess that factors contributing to this meteoric rise in sales of liquid foundation might include:

•  The introduction of BB creams to the UK market 
• BB creams have got us reappraising liquid foundation and thinking more about what we put on our faces. It's interesting to see the more established makeup brands react to this with new and improved formulas as well as their own versions of BB creams.
• Shades for darker skin tones
• This has been a long time coming but premium brands such as Lancôme, Chanel and YSL have finally caught up with forerunners MAC, Iman and Sleek. 
• Airbrushing
• Ironically, a heightened awareness of Photoshopped/airbrushed images over recent years has arguably contributed to a desire to learn how to achieve flawless skin 'naturally'. Whilst we all need a little help, thankfully the technology and innovation behind many of today's foundations, means a flawless face is possible.

Suits you Madam. image courtesy of http://thejournalista.wordpress.com

WHY CHOOSING A FOUNDATION IS A BIT LIKE CHOOSING A CAR (bear with me)...


1. First question to ask is 'what is my skin type?' (what petrol do I run on?)
OILY / DRY / COMBINATION / SENSITIVE

• Unsurprisingly, oily skins perform best under a matte finish (e.g. Clinique Stay Matte foundation, NARS Sheer Matte)
• Conversely, dry skins (including more mature skins) are better suited to more hydrating (oilier) foundations (e.g. NARS Sheer Glow, Bobbi Brown Extra-Repair Foundation)
• Combination skin can get away with both types - depends on which texture you prefer the look/feel of? Just watch that T-zone :)
• Sensitive skins will need to do patch tests / check for ingredients and go with foundations they know to be dermatologically sound

Ah yes, but what about COVERAGE?
Once you know your skin type you can quickly determine whether you would prefer a foundation with sheer / medium / full coverage. Unless you're a dancer in the Cirque du Soleil, I'd say most people are suited to a light to medium coverage. If you have severe acne and feel more comfortable with a fuller coverage it's often best to use a medium coverage foundation first, and then go in and conceal any redness/blemishes using a concealer such as Laura Mercier's cult product Secret Camouflage or Bobbi Brown's Creamy Concealer Kit.

2. Next question is 'how do I want my foundation to perform?' (what extra features would I like my car to have?) E.g. Anti-ageing? Firming? Long lasting? Built-in SPF? Built in moisturiser/primer? 


There are soooo many options to choose from. The thing to remember is that once you know your basic foundation need (matte/hydrating etc) you can build from there. 

Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk (left) and Fluid Sheer (right)

3. And finally, 'how do I want my skin to look?' (am I a matte black Ferrari girl or a metallic blue Lamborghini girl?)


Illuminating foundations such as Giorgio Armani Fluid Sheer Illuminator can be mixed with your regular foundation to give you more of a dewy glow (see also YSL's *NEW* Touche Éclat Foundation). 


If you like a matte finish but want a touch of the 'dewy skin', work with illuminator creams such as MAC Strobe or NARS Orgasm Illuminator. Using your fingertips, press a little of your chosen illuminator cream onto cheekbones and blend well. Illuminators go on top of your foundation and the golden rule is Less is Always More. 


Which foundation have you bought and loved?


* I have emailed NPD - the body responsible for this statistic - to clarify which period the 80% increase refers to