This little trick has *totally* transformed my look

Mariela woke up like this. OK, maybe she woke up with the nose (I so want that nose) and
brows (don't get me started)....but the rest is makeup. Phew :)

I thought I knew everything there was to know about highlighting (or 'strobing' as it's been recently rebranded *yawn*) but that was until I got chatting to Heidi at the Hourglass counter in Liberty last week. Heidi and I had been emailing recently and I'd promised to come in at some point to check out the new ambient powders.

If you want to discover the 'trick' quickly then scroll now to the end. If not, allow me to introduce you to Hourglass.

If you've never heard of Hourglass I'd describe them as the 'red carpet ready' makeup brand (think flawless dewy 'Hollywood' skin, sculpted cheekbones and lacquered lips). Founded in 2004 by cosmetics innovator Carissa Janes Hourglass was borne out of a desire to create a modern, luxury and high performing cosmetics brand. The brand's packaging is sleek and rose gold coloured (our obsession with rose gold clearly showing no sign of waning!) and the makeup within it boasts innovative formulations designed to challenge the makeup status quo. In a nutshell it's darn good stuff.

A superior trio
Two Christmases ago I was lucky enough to be gifted the spenny but utterly gorgeous Hourglass Ambient Lighting Palette (see above. This was after much begging and puppy dog eyes I might add....spending over £50.00 on any makeup item for myself requires extensive consideration, hence the Christmas 'Wish List'!)

Two years on and I've basically worn down all three of the powders, but my favourite by far was the middle one - the highlighting powder. You can imagine my glee when Holly emailed to say that Hourglass were launching a range of individual highlighting powders. And boy are they good...

Mood lighting
The Ambient Lighting powders come in four shades which the brand says are universally flattering, but I'd recommend you try them on your skin before you buy (especially seeing as they're £34 each). The shade I was most drawn to personally was 'Iridescent' (above).

And now for The Trick *drumroll* 
I've always known highlighters come in both cream and powder formulations but for some reason I'd never thought to apply a powder highlighter wet(?!) *claxon*.

"Whaaaat???!! Heidi, this is a revelation!"

What happens
Applying a powder highlighter with a wet brush does two things to your skin:

• it gives it an ethereal high-shine glow, more so than simply using a cream or powder (dry)
• it can help buff the product even more effectively into your base (or nude skin)

BUT! It's all in the balance
Since trying this technique using a number of different powder highlighters I've discovered the method has several pros and cons:

• The brush needs to be damp not wet (i.e. running it under a free flowing tap is too much. A could of drops and then wring with your hand)
• A more densely packed, round brush works better than one which splays (the Hourglass brush that is recommended to accompany this product has a flat dome shape. A stippling brush like this one would also work well).
• The more finely milled the powder the better (if you're sixteen you can wear whichever powder takes your fancy! Thin, thick, doesn't matter...but the moment you start seeing those fine lines around the eyes it's best to opt for a finely milled powder. Case in point, I tried applying my trusty Kevin Aucoin 'Candle Light'* with a damp brush but the powder was too thick to be used wet and really accentuated my fine 'late thirties' lines. Boo).
• Be warned: if you have dry skin, adding water to it might make it feel even tighter! (To combat this moisturise well before you apply your base and consider applying a cream highlighter or a light touch of a natural, non-tinted lip balm underneath your wet powder highlighter).

* It's been several years (at least four) since I bought the Candle Light powder so the formula may have changed. Net-a-porter describe it as 'lightweight' which is something I definitely would not use to describe my one!

In natural light

Natural light again and for some bizarre reason slightly cross-eyed lol

With flash

Where to find Hourglass
If you're interested in experiencing Hourglass for yourself head to Liberty, Space NK or Harrods (Urban Retreat). For those of you who might be reading this overseas (*waves*) click here and search for your nearest stockist.

I'll leave you with a pretty awesome quote I found from Hourglass' CEO:

"When I’m developing a product, it needs to be one of two things: It either needs to be the total reinvention of a category, or it needs to be a product from the future. If it’s been done, I’m not interested." BOOM!  

   - Carissa Janes, founder and CEO, Hourglass Cosmetics

Do you have a go-to highlighting product? I'd love to know.


Images: Hourglass' website and my own

This post is not sponsored. I'm merely writing about it because I think it's good stuff :) 

Strobing: How to get killer cheekbones without going near a bronzer

Wow, everyone and his dog seem to be banging on about STROBING this month. Yes, you did read that correctly. Strobing is an official makeup term that is providing light relief in response to contouring fatigue.

What is it?

Strobing is essentially the yin to contouring's yang. A way to sculpt the cheekbones without bronzer (ideal for those who feel they've seen one too many paint-by-number Kim Kardashian looks).

Also referred to as highlighting or illuminating, the inventors of strobing (so they claim) are that well-known powerhouse of colour, MAC, although it's highly possible the technique was developed decades before by another makeup artist/s. Whatever the case, MAC's cult Strobe Cream* (£24.50 full size or £10 travel edition) is seriously worth checking out.

Strategic strobing

Strobing (highlighting) is all about creating the appearance of good lighting by highlighting the areas of the face where light naturally hits. Think...

CHEEKBONES                                                                    
                                                                                             TEMPLES 
                               ARCH UNDER THE BROW            
                                                                                                                            CUPID'S BOW

...You can also highlight the nose and forehead but I'd be sparing with these areas as a shiny nose and forehead can look sweaty in flash photography, even when you're dry as a bone.

Places to avoid when strobing: cheeks (Shiny cheeks = Santa. Not a great look).

* MAC Strobe can look ashy on deep skin tones. Please see my note below re. the right shades for highlighting all skin tones.

Strobing powders: Hourglass (left), Kevin Aucoin (right)

Clockwise from left: MAC Strobe Cream; Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow (more of a primer 
but you can wear it on top of makeup); Clarins Beauty Flash Balm (cult product, again, 
wear as a primer or on top); Kryolan 'Cashmere'/Illusion 'Silk'

MAC Strobe

The choice is yours

Your strobe or highlighting product will come in one of two forms: cream or powder. 

Cream: 
Apply a little to the back of your hand then mix it using the flat of your ring finger. Gently pat the product onto the areas you wish to highlight.

Powder: 
Use a fan or tapered brush (two examples below).

All age types can wear both cream or powder but it's been my experience that some highlighting powders can end up sitting in fine lines on more mature skins (and by that I mean if you're over 30). That's the reason I love the Hourglass Ambient Lighting series (£38) as the powders are so delicate on the skin and never feel heavy, even when I apply several layers.

Kryolan fan brush (left, £10.50), Charlotte Tilbury Powder & Sculpt Brush (right, £35)

Different shades of strobe
It's not a one-shade-suits-all game with strobing so it's important you choose the right shade for your skin tone. Here's a quick guide:

• PALE: silvery / champagne / light
• OLIVE: pink / golden hues
• INDIAN: as above but add to that 'coral' hue
• DEEP: golden / deeper coral / warm (avoid silver which will look ashy)

Is strobing appropriate for work?
Absolutely, but as with all business makeup it's important to strike the right balance.  I'd opt for a low shimmer powder that's 2-3 shades lighter than your natural skin tone or a cream/lotion of the same shade. Dab/apply only very lightly and avoid the nose and forehead altogether.

Image: Pixiwoo

The strobing jackpot
There is one product in my kit - Glamcor's Glamor Glow Ultra Sheer Skin Brightener (£30) - that simply cannot be surpassed when it comes to highlighting. It works brilliantly on both younger and more mature skins (particularly on mature skin because it doesn't settle into fine lines). It comes in a light liquid form that's easy to blend and layer up.
I. Absolutely. LOVE. IT. (Word of warning: This one's an absolute pain to track down...but if you can get hold of some it's worth it! Main stockists now seem to be States side).

Practice on the cheap
Applying a little rich moisturiser such as Nivea cream to your cheekbones, over the top of your makeup, is a great way to practice. The really dewy photos you see in magazines? Makeup artists have generally reached for Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream or a face oil but this can be impractical in everyday life as the oiliness either doesn't sit well on top of makeup or will easily slide off as the day progresses (not a good look, particularly in a meeting!). A good strobing cream product will dry quite matte on the skin whilst leaving a subtle 'shine'.

Do you have a favourite highlighter? Or does the idea of highlighting scare you?