Why do we wear makeup? Part II

© Chris Bretz; hair & makeup: Natalie James Makeup

In Part I of this post on why we wear makeup, I posed the question: Is wearing makeup a primal activity? Secondary to this question is this: if (for argument's sake) makeup were a primal activity....just WHO are we wearing it for?

Throughout history, humans have marked their faces, bodies and nails as a form of communication, self expression and to attract others (initially sexually and latterly to signify social status). We know that modern day makeup has the ability to enhance and in some cases completely alter a person’s features (think eyelash extensions, coloured contact lenses). When we go on a date we might choose to wear a brightly coloured lipstick as we know this draws the attention of the viewer (male or female). Or we might wear slightly more eye makeup to draw more attention to our eyes (therefore encouraging eye contact). But at work? What’s appropriate? And if we do wear a little makeup (or a lot), just who are we wearing it for?

I recently did a quick survey amongst a handful of businesswomen and the majority (verbal) response was that they wear makeup for themselves (to boost confidence and poise) but – AND HERE'S THE INTERESTING THING – they wear it *mostly* for other women.

Is wearing makeup to work therefore perhaps a way of gaining kudos from other female employees? A way to fit in?

When a woman wears an item of makeup – or say a pair of shoes – that are fashion forward and subsequently openly celebrated by her female colleagues, what’s the effect on the men in the office?

Q: For as many points as we’re scoring with our female peers, could we be giving out completely the wrong signal to our male counterparts?

A businesswoman told me anecdotally that she’d bought a fuchsia pink lipstick one Saturday (bang on trend for S/S13, top marks!) and had decided to wear it to the office on Monday morning (hmm). Whilst her female colleagues cooed at the 'brightness and oh, the texture!' of the lipstick (not to mention how it off-set her navy silk top beautifully), the male members of her team found it distracting. Kinda gets you thinking doesn't it...

Have you ever worn a shade of lipstick or eye shadow to the office and regretted it? 

If you missed out on Part I you can read it here.

To continue the debate on whether makeup is a primal activity or more of a social acceptance tool, post your thoughts in the comment box below.

For more information about The Makeup Debate talks and workshops, visit our website.

Why do we wear makeup? Part I

© Alice Luker; makeup by Natalie James Makeup

Every couple of months, my friend and I – storyteller, blogger and all round ball of energy Chris Packe – meet for coffee. We have the most wonderful conversations, many of which seem to circle around one particular topic: human behaviour. 

This morning, as Chris eked out a large pot of Darjeeling and I necked my second cappuccino of the day (argh, must cut down)...the word 'primal' came up. A lot. 

This is unsurprising because Chris is fascinated by the role primal instincts play in our daily lives. He is also intrigued by our ability (and to a greater extent society's) to suppress them. From my side, well, I guess it got me thinking about the role makeup plays, specifically in the workplace, and whether we would define the act of wearing makeup as a primal activity? And if (for argument's sake) wearing makeup were a primal activity... just WHO are we wearing it for?

© James Champion; makeup: Natalie James Makeup

There's no doubt, it's a big question to ask and one that engenders all sorts of awkward shifting in chairs. I'm sure many of us would balk at the idea of there being any underlying, subconscious sexual impulses at play when choosing how to dress or what makeup to wear to the office (unless we're single of course but, even then, there are limits aren't there girls!).

For me, to question why we wear makeup is a question worth asking, particularly given the social shift taking place currently in the workplace (What’s that then?)

© Seun Shote; makeup & nails: Natalie James Makeup

Ladies (and gents) something is happening in business circles that I refer to in my talks as ‘The Rise of the Feminine’. It's a hot topic right now for women in business and commentators on the subject refer to it in different ways. Essentially The Rise of the Feminine represents a cultural shift in the way women are perceived in business...that feminine qualities, in particular feminine leadership qualities such as the ability to listen, to nurture the group and to multitask, are being heralded and actively sought out by companies because of the positive impact fostering such qualities can have on business growth.

But what do feminine leadership qualities have to do with wearing makeup?

Well for one, this shift alters our view of what a successful businesswoman should look like. Gone are the days where a woman feels the need to dress and act like a man to get ahead. Women are dressing in a much more feminine way (Note, I don't mean sexual here, but feminine in the sense of softer fabrics, more feminine cuts and patterns). I once interviewed a female banker who said 'the more feminine I dressed the better I performed'. Why? I'd chance a guess it has a lot to do with authenticity.

Of course there is always a balance to be struck depending on your industry, your role and your age (controversial I know) but The Rise of the Feminine is visibly changing the status quo and for that reason alone it's worth thinking about. Right?

Part II of this conversation continues here.

To continue the debate on whether makeup is a primal activity or more of a social acceptance tool, post your thoughts in the comment box below.

For more information about The Makeup Debate talks and workshops, visit our website.

Favouring the undone

image: gq-magazine.co.uk

Woah, that Harry Styles.

Now, I'm old enough to be his mother (eek..well, almost) and whilst I'm in no way a One Direction fan (unlike my friend B! Tsk) the cover of GQ certainly caught my eye this month...but not for the reason you think.

It was actually Harry's brows that caught my eye, in particular the one on the right. Why? Because his brows are 'undone', slightly askew, and not preened to perfection. Which I liked. He is a man, after all (ahem, OK, a young man).

Harry's brows got me thinking...when it comes to our own makeup, can we get too perfectionist about it all? Is 'undone' a good quality to nurture when it comes to our own routine?

Whenever I find myself doing a bit of male grooming on set I automatically reach for the brow gel and a clean mascara wand (to comb through the brows). But it's always at the back of my mind not to make them too neat. Same goes for concealer...some guys - especially those who are about to be photographed/filmed - need a touch of concealer under the eyes, not a lot, just a little, but in applying it there is always a fine balance.

Photography: © James Champion; hair and makeup: Natalie James Makeup

I love it when boyish/undone makeup enjoys a renaissance in women's magazines and on the catwalks, which it does with unsurprising regularity. The kind of 'barely there' makeup that favours boyish brows and bee-stung lips. There is something quite primal about this look which I've always liked. It seems to allow a woman's femininity to shine through all on its own, giving it a break from the usual mask of kohled eyes and bronzed cheekbones.

I guess the point of this post is to say there can be a time and a place for perfection (gala dinner? wedding?) but that our day-to-day makeup is far best left slightly undone. So what if your eye liner's a bit askew or your lip line not quite perfect. Get out there and don't sweat it. You'll still shine...

The ultimate makeup bag

I'm so in love...

It was my birthday on Sunday and I was spoilt rotten by some very dear friends (thank you dear friends).

The first present I opened was this simply divine makeup bag by American label J Crew in collaboration with Liberty Print (thank you Kat!!)

I can honestly say I have never known a makeup bag quite as beautiful or practical.

Here's why:
- The print is heavenly....it's feminine but not girlie, sophisticated and not unlike the greenhouse at Kew (tropic chic anyone?)
- It looks and feels like silk but is actually 100% cotton (far more practical). The inside lining is a clever shade of camel and made from a much sturdier cotton weave.
- It is the perfect size. Large enough to hold enough makeup for a weekend away but can also be folded when carrying a slightly smaller top up kit.
- The zip doesn't lacerate my hands when I'm delving in to find my hair grips swimming at the bottom (the bag opens at the top to form a natural bucket)

I'm afraid it's sold out (of course it is) but here's the link to buy anyway...you never know, it might just come back in stock.

Dewy summer skin

English Rosa

My friend Rosa Hoskins-Holt (who is also a styling genius by the way) is pretty gorgeous it has to be said. So when we decided to film a makeup and styling tutorial together I couldn't wait to suggest that she model for the video.

We spent a couple of hours one Saturday filming our first video - a 'how to' on creating the perfect summer skin.

Summer skin is all about keeping it light and airy...subtly dewy without looking hot and bothered, light contouring and just a hint of blush.

Here is a list of the products I used to create this dewy, ethereal look:

Dewy summer skin:

• MAC Oil-control lotion
• <preferably add in a separate high-factor SPF here>
• Estée Lauder Day Wear Sheer Tint Release (SPF 15) mixed with a little Chantecaille Just Skin in Alabaster (SPF 15)
• Bobbi Brown corrector and Creamy Concealer Kit (More concealing tips and tricks)
• Laura Mercier Bronzing Gel (just beneath the cheek bones, into the hairline and down the nose)
• Becca cream blush in Turkish Rose
• NARS Orgasm illuminator mixed with a little MAC Strobe Cream
• A light dusting of blot powder (we used Chantecaille HD Powder)
• Cowshed Lippy Cow Natural Lip Balm on the eyes
• Bourjois Rouge Edition, Shade 19, Corail en Vogue  (Rosa's own)

So what's the secret to this look?
- apply each product in thin layers
- use your fingers to pat and blend

Are you super pale?
Estée Lauder's Day Wear Sheer Tint Release is a gorgeous product (smells divine by the way). I love wearing it in the summer as it gives my skin a healthy, dewy glow. My one watch out would be if you're pale like me, to mix it with your regular tinted moisturiser/foundation as it can look brown (or worse, dirty) on its own when worn on pale skin. Be sure to blend a little down the neck line when you wear it.

What's your go-to summer product? I'd love to know...

Beat the heat

A bit sweaty...But we couldn't care less!

Isn't the sunshine glorious?! (Factor 30+ people...all the way).

I've decided to start this next blog post on heat-proofing your makeup with a photo of my baby sis and I. Here we are...a right couple of Sweaty Bettys cheering Murray onto victory (damn straight).

We couldn't have cared less about our makeup that day (the way it should be). But how do you heat-proof your makeup when you have an important meeting or a date? What are the tricks to stop it sliding down your face half way through the day (or worse still, on the tube journey in?!).

The good news is all it takes is a couple of tweaks to your usual routine... and perhaps the odd new purchase (eek!).

Here are my top 'beat the heat' tips to help you maintain a look that's polished and shine-free:

Tip #1: Think THIN (layers)

• GO EASY: We sweat more in the summer months so it's important to scale back the amount of makeup you would normally apply. The best way to do this is to think about applying your makeup in thin layers.
• LIGHTER COVERAGE: Your skin should feel a bit clearer in the Summer (though no always). If you can get away with wearing a tinted moisturiser, rather than a medium coverage foundation, then go for it. If you don't want to compromise on coverage opt for an oil-free foundation.

Kiehl's Ultra Light daily Moisturiser, SPF 50, £31

• SPF: I prefer to wear a separate SPF under my base in the summer as SPF 15/25 in a tinted moisturiser doesn't feel quite enough. At the moment I'm wearing Kiehl's Ultra Light Daily Moisturiser SPF 50. See also Chantecaille Ultra Sun Protection SPF 50 +++ (£76) which glides on like an invisible, dry oil (spenny yes, but worth every penny). Some SPFs can make your skin feel extra sweaty the moment you begin applying your makeup (argh) so be sure to apply a thin layer and blend out (spend about 20 seconds blending). Applying an equally thin layer of your chosen base (tinted moisturiser or foundation) will also help to minimise makeup slide.

Stila Convertible Color, £16 (lips and cheeks)

• CREAMS: I like wearing cream products in the summer months (bases, cream blushers, sheer illuminators etc). There are heaps out there. Stila's Convertible Colors are an easy way in. When experimenting, remember less is more and be sure to use your fingers (remember those thin layers!)
• EASY ON THE POWDER: The only time I use powder is to set a makeup, for example, to set my concealer (see Bobbi Brown's Creamy Concealer Duo) or a light dusting down the T-zone with a Blot Powder (see MAC).

Chanel's Waterproof Stylo liners are just fab (£19)

Tip #2: Opt for WATERPROOF and LONG-LASTING formulations 

• OIL-FREE: When buying foundation for the summer choose an oil-free formulation (unless you have very dry skin).
• FINGERS AT THE READY: Applying it with your fingers won't make you extra sweaty - it should leave a nice dewy effect.

Is MAC Face and Body 50ml £21.50 the answer to your Summer prayers?

• LABEL WATCH: An obvious one, but go for products - mascaras, liners, foundations - that are labelled 'waterproof' or 'water resistant'. Makeup artist favourite, MAC Face and Body Foundation (£21.50), is now available in a 50ml bottle *cheer*....it's buildable, light-weight and water resistant. You can also use it on your arms and legs (well if it's good enough for Victoria's Secret Models...)
• CREAM EYESHADOWS: There are heaps of waterproof cream eye shadows on the market that provide an easy, crease-free base that will last all day. See the Maybelline Colour Tattoo range if you want to dip your toe (figuratively speaking of course).

Max Factor Lasting Lip Tint (£4.99)

• LONG-LASTING LIP: When it comes to lip colour, avoid anything too glossy which will just melt. Instead, opt for a lip stain or long-wearing lip colour that you can wear as a base. Apply a thin layer of balm or clear gloss on top to avoid your lips drying out.  

Aussie brand Jurlique's Rosewater Balancing Mist (£13.25 for 50ml) 

Tip #3: Pro products to help you FRESHEN UP & DE-SHINE

• ROSEWATER: Any kind of spray is useful to carry around with you, preferably one with a rose base that will calm, rehydrate and brighten the skin. See Jurlique Rosewater Balancing Mist (£13.25 for 50ml), cult-favourite Caudalié's Beauty Elixir (£11 for 30ml) and for the purists among you Chantecaille's (oh-so-heavenly) Pure Rosewater (£50) which is 99.9% botanical (as pure as you can get). Remember you can always decant your rose water into a teeny-tiny, travel-size spray bottle (see Muji for excellent travel bottles).

Image courtesy of Tatcha.com

• BLOT PAPERS: Invented by the Japanese about 300 years ago, blotting papers should be an essential part of your makeup arsenal during the sizzling months. The nature of the paper means they are able to absorb excess oil without damaging your makeup. Cult Japanese brand Tatcha sell gold-infused blotting sheets (£11 for 30 sheets) that are - in my opinion - far too beautiful to use on sweaty skin. A great alternative is MAC Blot Film (£11 for 30 sheets) or Boots Skin Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets (£2.66). Wrap one sheet around a scrunched up tissue and press onto areas of shine for optimum results.

Do you have any ultimate 'beat the heat' makeup tips?

Are you Miss Represented?

Last Wednesday evening I had the privilege of attending a private screening of a sensational new documentary entitled Miss Representation. I say sensational for two reasons: one, because it's brilliantly produced (the handiwork of actress and campaigner Jennifer Siebel Newsom), and two because it highlights - with extraordinary poignancy - the way women are misrepresented by the media.

There is an 8 minute trailer you can view here but if you can get your hands on the full 1.5 hour film, watch it. I went through a range of emotions during the film....disgust, indignation, horror, sadness, concern. But above all else, a desire to pledge to 'be the change'.

The film makes the point that we appear to be living in a world not too dissimilar from a teenage boy's wet dream. A world where women are sexualised in adverts, films, even on the news* and with frightening consistency.

*See FOX News for countless examples, although living in the UK I think this is less of a problem

Rarely are we presented with strong, real females in the media, grounded and spirited women who have achieved great success in their own right. Even when a woman is praised for her achievements it's not long before the subject of her personal appearance or physical attributes are mentioned (as if this has anything to do with it?). 

Beauty, of course, plays a huge part in the way women are portrayed in the media and the pressure women feel today to look YOUNG, consistently POLISHED and SEDUCTIVE has never been greater.

Girls are taught from a young age that their value lies in their appearance (rather than their intelligence or ability) and this is reinforced on a daily basis with a steady barrage of images of 'hot' girls in music videos, films and adverts. The effect? Body dysmorphia issues are now recorded in girls as young as 7 or 8.

As a working makeup artist my thoughts are never far from these issues and whilst I will happily comment on a woman's natural beauty I'm conscious it should never be the principle focus. My work has always been about helping women to look and feel vital and energised (as opposed to sexy and beautiful) and it was with this desire in mind that I set up my consultancy, The Makeup Debate (I am giving a lunchtime talk at RBS on 7 August so do message me if you would like to attend).

So what can we do to begin to reverse the way women are presented to the world? Watch the film, take the pledge and let's continue to share stories of women who are achieving great things - there are so many out there!