Makeup: Is it really OK to wear what we want?

Now here's an interesting question. Do we really think it's OK to wear whatever we want makeup-wise, all of the time? Where are the boundaries? Are there or should there be any boundaries?

In this month's Glamour magazine (pg. 159, Keira Knightley front cover) the fabulous Sali Hughes - Guardian beauty journalist extraordinaire - tackles one of my all-time favourite subjects; makeup and feminism.

So where does makeup currently sit on the feminist scale?

Sali argues she's sick of people telling her she can't possibly be a feminist AND love makeup. The assumption that women who love makeup (wearing it, shopping for it, talking about it, writing about it) are somehow lacking in brain cells is a particularly ancient and not to mention unsubstantiated stereotype. I can personally attest to knowing a handful of very successful women (lawyers, investment bankers, senior suite executives) who have gone completely gaga when I've shown them the latest in foundation technology or a vibrant matte red lip shade. Does this mean they're stupid because they relish the joy and playfulness that makeup brings out in them? Does it b*llocks.

A time and a place
It's a fabulous piece of writing and if you get a chance to read it, do, however, there was one line towards the end of Sali's article which jarred with me slightly. She concludes:

'The freedom to look however you choose is feminism'.

I'd agree, yes, but only up to a point.

Take a woman's place of work for example. Should she feel free to express her love of all things punk or goth in the office? That's clearly at one extreme end of the spectrum, but how about slightly less artistic preferences? Are absurdly long eyelash extensions an acceptable form of grooming? What about bright red lips?

Conversely, should a women be free to wear no makeup at all?

For me it's not a question of freedom - we all have the freedom to do what we want - but rather it's about being strategic. 

I believe a woman's makeup has to be fitting for the role. Women are missing a trick if they think being entirely themselves in the makeup and wardrobe department is the secret to success. Of course, a healthy dose of self-esteem and confidence is essential to winning the respect of both your peers and clients but there is a fine line and often I think the nuance of striking the right balance is missed.

When it comes to your makeup for work there are several factors to consider:

• Does my look best represent the company I work for? (i.e. does it reflect its culture, values and areas of expertise)
• Does my makeup represent me in the best light?
• Does my makeup reflect my ambition?
• How have I adapted my makeup to account for my age? (is it ageing to be wearing certain shades? answer: YES!)

Where to start?
A good starting point is to look at the industry or sector you work in. A woman working in sales for example will need a more polished (and arguably brighter) look than someone who works in medicine or HR.

And what about the size of your company? A larger firm is likely to have a standardised approach to appearance, setting the benchmark high.  More creative industries such as PR and advertising will expect a more individual and characterful dress code, one which allows for personality but without compromising on polish.

Ultimately makeup is there to be used and should not be underestimated in its ability to imbue health and vitality as well as inwardly bolstering our confidence.

The day I test drove the matte nail

Call me old fashioned but a matte top coat feels quite new age. I know the concept of a matte nail has been around for a while but I hadn't really dabbled in it. That was, until yesterday.

I'm a big fan of shaking things up and experimenting and quite like being taken out of my comfort zone. Much of what I love about makeup stems from an instinctive playfulness, a desire to touch and feel textures and observe the way certain colours make me feel. So you can imagine my delight when Nails Inc's Matte Top Coat (£12) appeared in my Glossybox a few weeks ago. I couldn't wait to take it for a test drive.

My interest was doubly piqued when Ciaté's 'Ditch the heels', £9 (grrrrreat name), an Emerald City Green with glorious shine, also turned up. Green nails? Well don't mind it I do! Could they become my new go-to Autumnal bright?

Application:
- goes on glossy and in about 30 seconds has 'turned' matte

Observations about going Matte:
- feels instantly modern
- works equally on short and long nails (but I imagine looks amazing on long squoval or round shaped nails)
- not as 'dull' as I thought it would be. Colour still looks vibrant.
- is not the same as when your glossy nail starts to lose its lustre. This is matte all over.

Colours I can see it working well on:
- white
- nude
- black
- burgundy
- deep purple
- navy
- royal blue

Fancy having a go?
- Premium buy:
Nails Inc Westminster Bridge Matte Top Coat, £12
- Budget buy:
Barry M Matte Top Coat £2.99

The green certainly has felt different and contemporary. I can see it working well teamed with a floral shirt or a cream lace top. I'd like to try the matte top coat over one of my classic deep burgundies. Now that would be chic.

Brow-maze!

Great things come in small packages

OK. Worst title yet....but hear me out. I LOVE this product.

It arrived a couple of months ago, nestled in the ridiculous packaging that comes with my monthly Glossybox (guys, seriously...can you make the box smaller or something? Or better still, deliver the surprise samples in a silicone food bag like this one?! OK. Maybe not silicone. Something biodegradable).

Where was I...

Yes! Little did I know this unassuming product would change my life irrevocably (I do not offer up those words lightly). One minute I'm happy as Larry, taking care to apply an oh-so-subtle layer of MAC's 'Omega' eye shadow (£13, perfect for blondes), using my all-time favourite brow brush (Illamasqua shhh)...and the next I've ditched them both* in favour of my GoFaster brow mascara!

*not really ditched forever. That would be stupid. They've simply been reassigned to the Evening Makeup Box.

With my browsings on. Pretty subtle hey?

Why it works:
- small brush applicator (about half the size of a mascara wand)
- just the right shade (not too dark and the right side of 'greige'. Comes in Light to Med and Dark)
- quick drying gel formula makes my brows appear fuller (hurray!)

Who are ModelCo?
Australian company, founded by former model booking agent, Shelley Barrett.

Where can I buy?
Hmm, that's a tricky one. It's currently unavailable on Amazon and Glossybox don't sell directly. You can order it from Australia for £9 (cost of the full size product) plus £5 shipping. That's about the same as Benefit's Gimme Brow (£17.50) which looks suspiciously similar (I wonder if they the same?)

Either way, having previously been sceptical of brow mascaras, particularly as I have very light brows, I'm newly converted to the concept and am enjoying making it part of my daily makeup routine.

Do you have a favourite brow product? Are you a pencil, powder or a gel gal? I'd love to know.

Does makeup = confidence?

Are the red specs too much?

The Makeup = Confidence debate has long fascinated me.

Partly because, as a working makeup artist I get to witness first hand the ways in which makeup can spark confidence in women (oh it can, yes it can). But partly too because, as a woman, I've personally experienced the spring in my step and the smile on my face that comes from walking into a room knowing my makeup looks great.

(I should add too that I've experienced the flip side... where my skin is not looking good. At all. And that knowing and feeling that has affected everything, from my posture to my ability to make conversation).

But back to the debate...

For as positive a tool as makeup can be....should it ever be used as a substitute for confidence?

Sali Hughes interviewing Charlotte Tilbury (in Charlotte's bathroom!)

Two things have prompted this post. One was discovering last week that one of my makeup heroes, the permanently feline-flicked celebrity makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury, reapplies her makeup before bed.

I'll say that again.

She removes her makeup (using her Clarisonic and her own Miracle Glow Cleanser) and then reapplies primer, concealer, liner and mascara (*GASP*).

Whilst Charlotte is a wonderful ambassador for the confidence-boosting aspects of makeup (I simply adore how easy she has made it for everyday women to copy their favourite Hollywood heroine) what BLEW MY MIND is that she insists that no-one should ever have to see her without makeup. Not even her husband.

I have to say this saddens me. I would hate to feel I couldn't go barefaced in front of my best friend or a man I liked. Perhaps Charlotte would go bare-faced but actively chooses not to? Regardless of the reason I still find it unsettling and at odds with the way I feel about makeup and when it should be used.

Btw, I highly recommend watching the whole video which is the second of a Two Part interview by the wonderful Sali Hughes, Beauty Guru for The Guardian. But if you simply want to skip to Charlotte's bedtime makeup routine start watching from 4:50. (If your reaction is anything like mine it will leave your jaw on the floor).

The second thing to prompt this post was a bbc.co.uk news article which posed the rather controversial (but highly topical) question "Could a makeover save your career?" (Link to full article).

Personal brand is something we're probably all pretty familiar with. The notion that it's not just what you say or how brilliant you are at your job. Whether we like it or not people make sub-conscious judgements based on appearance.

Research recently conducted by the University of Hertfordshire confirmed this:

'What a person wears has a big impact on others' impressions of them and on their subsequent career opportunities.' 

It even goes on to say:

'Women whose work-wear is "slightly provocative" are judged to be less competent.'  

                                      - Excerpt from an interview with Karen Pine, a psychology professor at the  
                                        University of Hertfordshire.

Trust me, I'm a salesperson
Whenever I struggle with this debate I seem to always revert to the sales analogy.

Imagine you're being sold something by the best salesman or saleswoman in the world. What would you want, or expect them to look like? Would their scruffy shoes distract you from their eloquent sales tactics? Or how about their visible (and therefore highly distracting) cleavage? Would it make you think twice about your purchase?

The fact of the matter is people want to see health and confidence reflected back at them, regardless of the context. You might forgive a friend for having slightly lack-lustre or frizzy hair but how would that person fare in a business context? Can you imagine them going for a promotion?

Who can forget the relaxed confidence of Katie Holmes, photographed for
Bobbi Brown's 'Confidence is everything. But a little makeup can't hurt.' campaign.

As a makeup artist and someone who extols the benefits of strategic use of makeup in the workplace I'm conscious my appearance needs to consistently reflect the values I am promoting. This has its challenges! Especially after a British Military Fitness class (lol) or on a 'lazy' day. But I know how I feel on days when I haven't got my business face* on and for as much as I'm confident about my subject matter, I can't help but feel like I'm under-selling myself in the knowledge my appearance is under-par.

Whilst we can acknowledge that makeup should never be a mask I think it's also important to acknowledge that real confidence simply has to come from within. By all means use makeup and 'mazing haircuts and gorgeously fitting shoes and clothes to help boost your inner confidence...but don't forget too to reflect that mirror back at yourself and do the work on the inside. This is no quick fix. As someone who has had periods of sustained low self-esteem I can tell you I'm several years in and still delving, but finding I am building a solid foundation slowly but surely :)

And imagine just for a second how much more powerful makeup and heels and haircuts would be, knowing all the while, that should they be taken away, our inner confidence will still be there....standing tall and shiny.

* To clarify, my business face is not wearing a tonne of makeup. It's about using very thin layers of product to imbue health, vitality and professionalism. I want the people I talk to to think 'She looks great' not 'Wow she's wearing a lot of makeup for a Tuesday'.


Images:
Guess Accessories (Kate Upton)
Charlotte Tilbury
Bobbi Brown (Katie Holmes)

Super handy

I may be small but I pack a mean punch

I don't know about you but, my god, removing nail polish can be boring. BoooooORING!! Even the thought of having to do it makes me yawn.

So imagine my DELIGHT when I discovered Pretty Quik Instant Nail Polish Remover.

It was the day before I was traveling to Spain on holiday and I was in Beauty Travel Prep mode. I knew I didn't want to take my full size nail varnish remover with me but couldn't be bothered to decant it into a smaller bottle (although this is a great thing to do. The smaller the bottle the better. You know those teeny bottles of shampoo and shower gel you get at hotels? Keep em! They come in super handy when traveling).

I'd always been sceptical of 'Quickies' and pots of sponge-soaked nail varnish remover thinking they would just dry out leaving me having to resort to my nail varnish remover after all. But this little pot does exactly what it says on the outside and I'm even continuing to use it several weeks after my holiday.

How it works:
- simply dip your finger into wet pink sponge and twist (be careful not to tip the pot upside-down as its quite liquid at the bottom. I discovered this whilst twisting rather animatedly).

Why it works:
- its principle ingredient is acetone (acetone nail varnishes being the most effective at removing nail varnish. You can buy non-acetone removers but I find they take longer to work). Warning: Acetone will strip your nails of their natural moisture if left on the nail so be sure to wash your hands immediately after using and apply a generous splurge of hand cream or nail oil.
- the sponge saturates the entire nail dissolving nail varnish quickly and easily, even when wearing multiple layers e.g. base coat, 2x coats of colour and top coat.

Where to buy:
Boots (£2.79) and Superdrug (£2.99)

Not for toes:
Clever ol' me thought I would try removing the nail varnish on my toes(!) with the pot. Hahahahhahahaha. Don't do it. Unless you've got super long toes (you weirdo) you won't be able to dip them low enough to wet them.

Do you have a favourite nail product? A nail oil or cuticle cream? I'd love to know.

Do You Get What You Pay For?

On Saturday I had an *big neon lights* ABSOLUTE BEAUTY DISASTER.

Yes, it happens to the best of us and yes I've been left reeling from my faux pas.

I was down in Bournemouth, the day after a friend's wedding when I happened upon a threading pop-up in the local shopping centre. The pop up was offering brow threading for just £4 (an absolute bargain compared to the £17 I usually pay at Blink) and top lip for an equally bargainous £5. Naturally, I thought 'why the hell not?' (why the hell indeed?!)

(I should point out that thankfully the mishap happened after the wedding and not before. Lol.)

You see, choosing to get my brows/top lip threaded at this particular pop up wasn't the problem. The therapists seemed well trained and had clearly been doing it for years. The problem lay in the fact I didn't say anything pre-treatment. Big mistake. Huge!

If I look scared it's because I am. Where the hell are my brows?!

'Too thin!' exclaimed the rabbit. (Well he didn't really but very well could have).

So what exactly happened?
The first sign of trouble was that the lady who threaded my brows, lovely as she was, threaded them in absolute record time (we're talking 2 mins max). The second sign of trouble was that she seemed to be taking a heck of a lot off, from both the top and the bottom. (Of course, as I'm lying there I'm thinking 'Hmmm, she seems to be doing this awfully quickly??' but because she was mid-flow I didn't want to say anything. Damn English politeness!). She then gets the scissors out and starts trimming the top.

My. Worst. Nightmare.

Brows 'done' (I'll say!) she then moves onto my upper lip and again, haphazardly works her way across. Closer inspection reveals she didn't do a great job as two days later I can still see patches of downy hair. I have also developed way more spots than I usually get along the area above my top lip which has left me looking rather like someone with a sizeable sugar addiction.

The irony
I could laugh (or cry) because just last week I submitted an article for BOE Magazine (you can check it out here) in which I proposed that well-groomed, fuller brows are fast defining an era in beauty.  Haha. And to top it all off, pre-brow disaster, I reckon I'd finally got to a stage where I was quite proud of my brows. I liked the fact they were bigger than I'd ever let them grow and that I'd finally embraced brow mascara (sniff).

Hindsight's a great thing a b*tch
Here's what I should have said to the threading technician in the pop-up:

"Hi there lovely threading lady! Before you begin working your magic on my brows can I please ask that you do not touch the top? Only the downy, blonde hairs underneath and in between my brows. That would be great. I quite like the shape/thickness they are and would love it if you could just remove the lighter hairs I find difficult to see. Thanks so much!"

It's sad really. I find myself replaying this request in my head on the bus.

Thank God for Sal
Bless my housemate Sal. About a month ago she'd rather excitedly announced that castor oil had been highly recommended to her by her local beauty place for boosting brow and lash growth. She's got a huge bottle of the stuff (organic brand: Pukka, £8.95 for 250ml from feelunique.co.uk) in our bathroom so I've been ceremoniously putting some on morning and night in the hope it will help my brows to grow back at lightning speed (any slower simply won't be quick enough).

Instances where it's possible to enjoy a bargain
Now I'm fully aware there will be ladies and gents out there who have enjoyed expert beauty and grooming services for not much money. In fact, I too have had unbelievably brilliant manicures for just £15. I've also had unbelievably terrible pedicures for obscene amounts! One pedicure sticks in my mind as it was just shy of £50 (i.e. above average for a standard pedi) and within an iconic department store with an almost impeccable reputation. My pedicure was so shoddy I felt compelled to complain the next day. The staff were very apologetic and offered me a deluxe pedi in return which I discovered a month later was just as bad, if not worse than the first! Paying more doesn't always guarantee a better outcome or service but one would hope it would excel that of its high street/market stall counterpart? Otherwise, why bother parting with the extra cash?

A bargain is possible I believe....but only in instances when:
- you know the therapist/makeup artist/hair stylist/barber/beautician personally and trust their work
- the treatment you're having is fool proof (e.g. leg wax). Hair cuts and eye brow waxing/threading is going to be highly visible so you can't afford to 'go cheap' on the off chance.

Is it worth the risk?
If you are thinking of testing out a cheaper service, my top tips are:
- Be prepared to walk away not entirely thrilled with the result (you are paying peanuts after all)
- Do your research. If recommended to you find out the name of the person who performs the treatment.
- Decide ahead of time what you're going to ask for. Be specific, even if you think you're spelling out the obvious, and trust your gut (if you don't think they've listened to you now's your chance to get out!)

First had this chop back in Feb 2014 and I absolutely love it.

Hair
Here is a case in point where it's ALL about the stylist.

I've been having my hair cut by a lady called Sally at the Aveda Institute, Covent Garden since mid-last year. Haircuts at Aveda are now an eye-watering £76 (they've just gone up by £2) for a cut and blow dry with a Senior Stylist. Having tried elsewhere for cheaper and been far less impressed with the results, I'd much rather pay an extra £20-25 and be absolutely delighted with my cut. A haircut is something you wear everyday and for me it can really set the gauge on how I feel. Bad haircut, bad mood. It's as simple as that.

But I'm not paying for the Aveda brand here (although I must admit the head massage at the beginning and the salon itself are both pretty wonderful). If Sally (hairstylist Sally, not housemate Sal) worked at a cheaper salon around the corner I'd follow her there. I'm paying Aveda prices because that's where she works and that's what they charge.

Same too can be said of makeup artists. An artist with a more expensive rate card doesn't necessarily guarantee a better quality of service or skill set.

Do you think you get what you pay for when it comes to beauty and grooming services? Have you had a beauty disaster when you've paid either through the nose or on the cheap? What was it and how did you cope with the aftermath? I'd love to know!

Image credits: 
NARS for Philip Lim 3.1 SS15
Spasalon.com
Pukka
All other images Natalie James Makeup

Introducing grooming wondersite: Yes Sir!

It's no secret that I love a bit of male grooming. Take grooming for male TV appearances, for example: How to groom a guy using makeup products but without leaving him looking like he's wearing anything? It can be challenging and that´s why I like it.

Over the years I've been lucky enough to provide professional grooming for fashion shoots, magazines, TV appearances, celebs and everyday gents. What fascinates me as a makeup artist and former marketeer is that the landscape of male grooming is continually evolving. In the UK alone the male skincare market is worth an estimated £600m (source: The Guardian, Sept 2013). £600m!! And if you think about the exploding popularity of beards over the past five or so years...I actually find it odd now when a man´s face isn't partially hidden from view :)

Yes Sir!
One person who is at the very pinnacle of the grooming zeitgeist is Rupa Ganatra (@RupaGanatra), founding partner behind a new grooming wondersite for the modern man, Yes Sir!.

Yes Sir! champions the not-your-run-of-the-mill grooming brands. A Space NK-style eShop for the modern gentleman, beard or no-beard. You gotta check out some of the names of some of the brands...  Scaramouche and Fandango (how brilliant is that), Billy Jealousy and my favourite, Triumph and Disaster.

Gratuitous 'hot grooming pic', courtesy @TomFord (no no Tom...thank YOU).

Ahem, where was I.....yes, grooming!

I was lucky enough to spend an hour with Rupa a couple of weeks ago and was fascinated to hear about the latest mover and shaker products in the male grooming market right now. 

The hugely inspiring Rupa Ganatra, founder of Yes Sir!

Some of the best selling products on Yes Sir! include:
- Beardsley´s Wild Berry Beard Shampoo (£14.95) - the marketing insight behind this clever little invention is that guys dislike washing their beards with regular shampoo because it doesn´t taste nice. Genius.
- Captain Fawcett´s Moustache Wax (£9) which comes in three scents: Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang and Lavender. I was surprised to hear that Sandalwood is the most popular of the three which is curious as it means gents must err more towards a traditional ´old school´ fragrance (grooming brands take note).

I asked Rupa what she thought the big grooming trends of the future will be. She said that brows will probably feature quite heavily (a brow gel perhaps? Or perhaps an increase in popularlity of threading services for men?). She also said a brand called Mazorin featured on Yes Sir! is gaining noteriety because of its business-focussed products (you should have SEEN the excitement on my face). One of their executive care products bears the title ´Working Late Eye Serum´ (£21) and is a tipped as a ´must-have eye roll-on´ for those who ´work hard and play harder´.

Another interesting example is Recipe for Men´s´Energizing Bronze Cream´ (£30) which gives the skin ´a hint of colour for fresh and healthy looking skin´. Check out too the Recipe for Men Concealer Pen (£17, comes in two shades) which promises ´a creamy and caring liquid concealer with vitamin E´. Male concealers are regularly shunned by male friends of mine but I secretly wonder how many of them might be tempted to try one out (nothing ventured...).

Makeup for men will always spark a controversial debate but when looking purely at the principle that says that health is imbued through the skin, if our gents are working hard, just as we are, why shouldn´t they have a little helping hand? In business, good skin, teeth, nails, hair...it´s all part and parcel of presenting a complete package that confidently says "I am the best person for the job. You can trust me. I look after myself." For me a man is no less a man if he chooses to use a moisturiser, a face scrub or even a light concealer. It shows he cares about his appearance and that can be incredibly attractive.

Hold the phones: Get a FREE wet shave or beard trim with Yes Sir! at their pop up shop in Marylebone. 18th - 20th September, 2014

From Thursday 18th until Saturday 20th September Yes Sir! will be launching the world's first social media pop-up barbers in the heart of Marylebone (23 George Street). To enjoy your free wet shave or beard trim all you have to do is post to Facebook, twitter or Instagram using the hashtag #SHAVEMESIR. What's not to love! Hell, I wish I had a beard to trim!! I wonder if they do legs? (lolz).